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‘‘Emily Roux combines the essential criteria for a restaurateur — a love of food, wine and people’
Where to go for local squid, cuttlefish croquettes and suckling pig stew
‘At no point does any course — and there are 20 — drop below exceptional’
Where to go for flaky pastries, pistachio gelato and ‘crescentine’
‘While displaying sophisticated technique, the chef never conveyed the idea he took himself too seriously’
Where to find a classic Japanese breakfast and some ‘unmissable’ fish soup
The people who build them rarely own the brand of the product they produce
‘I’d eat a chicken raw, in full feather and fighting back if chef Fini said so’
‘The highlight was the red prawn curry, its rich flavours accentuated by a bowl of green mango slices and white turmeric’
Umami, salt, sweet, sour and bitter dishes all star on the chef’s Japanese-inspired menu
Where to go for authentic Essex classics such as cockles, fish and chips, and a full English breakfast
‘I’d do anything to eat the sea bass again — well, anything except go back to the restaurant’
Where to find tangy goat’s cheese, Périgord cassoulet and Quercy lamb
Nicholas Lander appreciates contrasting flavours and texture from a restaurant showcasing dishes from the ‘heavenly’ Hangzhou region of China
Where to find ‘choripán’, popcorn semifreddo and good ol’ steak
Tim Hayward on why it’s ‘glee-inspiring to see the Soho institution reconnecting so comfortably with its own tradition’
After 20 years of socialist revolution, the gap between ‘haves’ and ‘have nots’ seems as wide as ever
Where to find home-churned ice cream, traditional seafood platters and ‘ya dong’ cocktails
‘My late father, who told me never to trust a skinny chef, would have felt we were in expert hands’
‘This took me back to the first time I ate a meze — the childish joy of conveying thrilling new things to my mouth with fat fingers and hot bread’
Where to find the best ‘tamagoyaki’, udon noodles and after-work drinks
The London branch of a luxe Chinese restaurant group fails to impress Nicholas Lander
Where to go for the great British breakfast, crab sandwiches and prawn bhuna
‘It blends half a dozen cultures without transmitting an iota of soul from any of them’
‘The flavours of the diced beetroot mixed elegantly with the creamed salmon’
