‘In that lovely room, the experience is cold’

‘This way of cooking would have died of its own absurdity a decade ago were it not for the fact that it’s ideal for competitive food TV’

‘In the privacy of the mouth, the Lobster Thermidor tart is shockingly lascivious’

‘Amazing food in a city that clings fiercely to a diversity that’s almost unmatched’

‘For many of us this place defines Soho. Not an iota of its original character has been lost and the food remains timeless too’

‘If Donald Trump hears about the Veggie New Yorker on Rye, he’ll nuke us into the Stone Age’

‘The lobster is the sort of dish that, when brought to table, will cause every other diner to quickly change their order’

‘Vanilla in savoury courses usually has me reaching for the shotgun but here it made the broth different and memorable’

‘In sum, we’re looking at pork, poached in pork, with fired pork to crumble over it’

‘The meat was clearly expensive but had been strip-searched and confiscated of any fat’

We’ve roistered our way through a food renaissance largely powered by the mass media

‘The pickled mustard greens provide foil to the unctuous broth. This is perhaps the best ramen I’ve eaten in the UK’

‘The cabbage was a cushion on which the mighty pork, weary of its own superlative excellence, could recline seductively’

‘My T-bone will rank as one of the better pieces of meat I’ve spent time with this year’

‘Everyone seemed to be having a great time. In fact, I can’t remember a happier room’

The FT columnist selects the blades that every self-respecting kitchen must have

‘The chef’s treatment of a piece of cod was the greatest compliment you can pay to a fish short of actually proposing to it’

‘This is the antithesis of cutting edge. It’s a slice of old London, lovingly revived by people who really care about such things’

‘This, you feel, as you release a nimbus of flavoured steam, is the sort of thing that’ll get the tyre-inspectors twitching’