Padella, London

‘At Padella, they “get” pepper. Their “cacio e pepe” reminds you that this was a spice men once travelled the world for’

Tim Hayward

Pidgin, London

‘The brown butter cream shouldn’t be on the same plate as celeriac in any sane frame of reference. But it is, and it’s perfect’

Tim Hayward

Ognisko, London

‘I get through a great deal of meat and this piece, pig-redolent, grill-marked and juicy as all hell, was definitely the best of the year’

Tim Hayward

Hoppers, London

‘Chicken-heart chukka presents the adorable little organs grilled and bathed in sauce: a tour de force in red-hot offal’

Tim Hayward

Oklava, London

‘There’s potential here to do for Turkish-Cypriot food what Nieves Barragán Mohacho has done for Spanish at Barrafina’

‘Pasta carries stories’

A cooks’ tour of Tuscany uncovers some of the secrets of making ‘proper’ pici, orecchiette, tortelli and capelli d’angelo

Lurra, London

‘The slow roasting retains every millilitre of juice. One mouthful of lamb had the texture of a poached oyster’

Tim Hayward

Bellanger, London

‘Alsace, Austria and Switzerland might once have been home to this kind of grand restaurant but they also had some bloody awful food’

Tim Hayward

The hard sell

‘We’re used to seeing chefs posing arrogantly, arms crossed, but they’re not really as tough as they look’

Tim Hayward