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‘At no point does any course — and there are 20 — drop below exceptional’
Warm stories champion the nation’s most traditional meals, while avoiding nostalgia and jingoism
The people who build them rarely own the brand of the product they produce
‘I’d eat a chicken raw, in full feather and fighting back if chef Fini said so’
Golden, triple-cooked, bathed in beef dripping — what’s the secret of potato perfection?
T Rowe Price, UBS, Credit Suisse, Kiltearn and Silchester hit by 80% fall in Swiss manager’s shares
‘I’d do anything to eat the sea bass again — well, anything except go back to the restaurant’
Tim Hayward on why it’s ‘glee-inspiring to see the Soho institution reconnecting so comfortably with its own tradition’
‘This took me back to the first time I ate a meze — the childish joy of conveying thrilling new things to my mouth with fat fingers and hot bread’
‘It blends half a dozen cultures without transmitting an iota of soul from any of them’
Who comes out on top in the battle to deliver the best steamed pork dumplings? Tim Hayward delivers his verdict
‘I was wowed by some of the best executions of a particularly delightful Italian idiom that I’ve tasted in or out of Italy’
‘There can’t be a better place or time to be reviewing restaurants than right here, right now’
From an ‘irreplaceably wonderful’ visit to his ‘angriest experience of the year’, read our critic’s highs and lows
‘I would probably strangle my firstborn to eat the duck again’
Is Christmas best for six-year-olds? And was it better in the olden days? We rediscover the joy of festive excess
In the 1960s, this relentlessly English meal included Bisto gravy, dodgy cream liqueurs and straining waistbands — but it was so good
Tim Hayward selects his must-read titles
‘A piece of shortbread is evidence of the existence of God’
The hospitality industry is too complicated and fragmented to attribute difficulties to single causes
Tim Hayward visits the Herefordshire restaurant that helped start a revolution — and delights in every course
‘It’s as uncomfortable as Hell, with seating straight from the mind of Dante Alighieri‘
‘I want, with all my heart, to say I love it but I can’t. The food is competent, on-brand but soulless’
‘It’s often the scorned and forbidden that bring us maximum joy’
The libertines might have disappeared — but the steak is ‘the perfect evocation of the American Dream’
