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‘The bouillabaisse is really four dishes — the fish, the soup, the rouille and the bread. It scarcely fits on the table’
A lavish set menu in a Swedish village features 17 exceptional courses
An unusual collaboration has created a resoundingly successful Thai restaurant
‘I requested a seat at the counter to watch these chefs in action’
‘The bone marrow and steak tartare would be a fitting candidate for my Desert Island dish’
Two veteran chefs offer a series of small shared plates from a daily-changing menu
Anyone who finds French cooking predictable will have their eyes opened by this Michelin two-star in Alsace
Nicholas Lander discovers some great scran at two new spots in the Scottish capital
Nicholas Lander relishes Hideaki Matsuo’s seasonal ingredients and virtuoso cooking
Lobster, crab and cured brill — Britain’s freshest seafood
It’s prime asparagus season: take full advantage of this all too temporary treat
The food menu comprises two pages, the wine list 22
‘The pumpkin porridge had far greater charm than its name suggested’
‘‘Emily Roux combines the essential criteria for a restaurateur — a love of food, wine and people’
‘While displaying sophisticated technique, the chef never conveyed the idea he took himself too seriously’
‘The highlight was the red prawn curry, its rich flavours accentuated by a bowl of green mango slices and white turmeric’
Nicholas Lander appreciates contrasting flavours and texture from a restaurant showcasing dishes from the ‘heavenly’ Hangzhou region of China
‘My late father, who told me never to trust a skinny chef, would have felt we were in expert hands’
The London branch of a luxe Chinese restaurant group fails to impress Nicholas Lander
‘The flavours of the diced beetroot mixed elegantly with the creamed salmon’
Nicholas Lander on the young refugees taken in by his grandparents in 1939 — and an enduring friendship
‘The first comes highly recommended for dinner while the latter provides a meal with a decidedly local flavour’
Our critic reviews a panoply of restaurants — from Hong Kong to Paris, Girona to Galway and Manchester to Margate
‘The 11-course tasting menu justified everything we had heard about the restaurant’
‘A glass of suanmeitang — sour plum juice — is the traditional Chinese antidote to a throat on fire’
