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‘The salad was as pretty as any picture painted by Dalí’
‘Italians have been practising the art of hospitality for centuries, ever since the first pilgrims headed to Rome’
‘The oysters had been coated in dashi, which gave the dish an extra shot of umami’
‘The one I fear most is a rise in interest rates. We have got used to cheap money’
Two very different menus that reveal distinctive cuisines
‘Down these steps every plate of food must travel, from amuse-bouches to petits fours. Service here is an extraordinary feat’
‘The saffron sauce with the grilled cod was so delicious that not a drop was left’
‘Scallop marinated in cardamom, jasmine and apple granita was made truly inspirational by the addition of sake lees’
As the economy becomes more dependent on tourism, chefs are rising to the challenge
One of France’s longest-running Michelin three-star restaurants is now resident in an architect-designed building
‘My memory of New York-Italian cooking is of copious food and low prices. That’s not the case here’
‘The crisp tostada with sea urchins, scallops and salsa was a fabulous combination’
‘Well-chosen dishes and wines conspire to underline the collective experience behind Mere’
‘From our table we saw fire escapes, laundries and restaurants Dashiell Hammett might have recognised’
‘I was most impressed by a tangerine mayonnaise that accompanied very fresh “locos” — the large native sea snails’
‘The octopus was exceptionally sweet, having been cooked slowly in embers and then roasted in a wood oven’
‘You are left alone to enjoy what they aspire to — British seasonal ingredients through an Italian lens’
‘The chefs’ ability to downsize so many of their dishes into smaller dishes or dishes to share has been a major advantage’
‘The menu may be French — but Le Coucou could not have met with such instant success in any city other than New York’
Consultant Michael Whiteman predicts ‘restaurants without seats, seats without restaurants’
‘Even just a few days spent in New York yields far more enticing restaurants than almost any other city’
‘The combination of vanilla ice-cream, olive oil, sea salt, honey and Italian white truffle had us licking our spoons clean’
‘We arrived “early”, at 8pm, so there was space for two right by the counter’
‘I fell rapturously for Estonian bread — not just for the traditional dark rye but for the focaccia-style roll’
‘I’ve always been a sucker for caramelised rice pudding but I don’t believe I’ve ever had one so stylishly served’
