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The London branch of a luxe Chinese restaurant group fails to impress Nicholas Lander
‘The flavours of the diced beetroot mixed elegantly with the creamed salmon’
Nicholas Lander on the young refugees taken in by his grandparents in 1939 — and an enduring friendship
‘The first comes highly recommended for dinner while the latter provides a meal with a decidedly local flavour’
Our critic reviews a panoply of restaurants — from Hong Kong to Paris, Girona to Galway and Manchester to Margate
‘The 11-course tasting menu justified everything we had heard about the restaurant’
‘A glass of suanmeitang — sour plum juice — is the traditional Chinese antidote to a throat on fire’
From Guy Savoy in Paris to Angela’s in Margate, our critic’s culinary highlights of 2018
Nicholas Lander enjoys dinner and lunch at the much-discussed Tribeca restaurant
‘This latest foray reveals his love of good Catalan food and wine but the space lacks excitement’
‘This is not crazed foraging but a thoughtful use of the best local ingredients’
Nicholas Lander on Michelin-star-winning chef Tom Kerridge’s first London restaurant
‘The Massaman chicken curry had lots of colour, lots of chicken and a sauce flowing with coconut milk, red chillies and cashew nuts’
‘A dish described as a “liquid summer salad with basil and olives” seemed pure El Bulli’
‘The boned skate wing with caviar looks so generous it could be called caviar with skate’
‘The tempura came with a dipping sauce so alluring that we refused to give it up’
‘Galway might be the world’s most attractive city in which to be a restaurateur’
‘Was it their policy not to charge for champagne?’
Oysters, scallops and views worthy of a Turner seascape
‘The locally caught langoustines contrasted beautifully with the morels’
‘The tortelli tasted as though each one had been made with love’
‘A giant lift, leading into a private room, can accommodate a bulletproof car’
‘We sampled thin strips of raw mackerel from Catalonia, its sweet flesh offset by a slightly sharp apple compote’
‘Beetroot and cranberry, not obvious bedfellows, made for a glorious topping to my smoked eel starter’
‘The pitta bread stuffed with slow roast beef and vibrant aubergine salad was authentically Israeli in inspiration’
