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As he prepares to reopen his three restaurants after a ruinous 14 months, he welcomes us into a modest kitchen that is more Ikea than Bulthaup
The chef’s attempt to shift from his fine-dining roots is laudable, but there were a couple of pretty average, unusually heavy-handed dishes
Where to go for Sunday lunch, Szechuan food and late-night drinking
Hard work is a key ingredient for the patron of three top restaurants
How to keep the market for rare, vulnerable and extraordinary ingredients thriving
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