An icon among diving watches, Blancpain’s Fifty Fathoms celebrates its 70th anniversary this year with a special edition inspired by the MIL-SPEC (military specification) model adopted at the time of its launch in the 1950s. Made of bronze gold, this 2023 reinterpretation features the moisture indicator (which would tell a diver if the watch’s safety had been compromised) that made it the watch of choice for combat divers from France, Germany, the US and Norway. 

Only slightly later to the diver’s watch party in the 1950s was the Omega Seamaster. Its latest iteration is a symphony in grey, and is both tough (water-resistant to 600m) and super-light, made for the first time with silicon nitride ceramic. Also ocean-ready are Longines’ Hydroconquest (featuring a new GMT movement allowing time to be displayed simultaneously in two time zones), and Bell & Ross’s latest take on its 03-92 model, which has been designed to be worn by the crew of the oceanography exploration schooner Tara.

Breitling looks to the skies with a new generation of its pilot’s watch, the Avenger, first designed two decades ago, as CEO Georges Kern says, “to stand up to the relentless conditions of a jet cockpit”. It would also look good paired with some fine tailoring, as would a pair of handsome motoracing-inspired chronographs from TAG Heuer in 18ct gold, nicknamed the “Success”, and Zenith’s latest Chronomaster Sport, with multicoloured subdials. Get out there.

Blancpain bronze-gold Fifty Fathoms 70th Anniversary Act 3, £28,200

Blancpain bronze-gold Fifty Fathoms 70th Anniversary Act 3, £28,200

Omega ceramic Seamaster Planet Ocean Dark Grey, £21,000

Omega ceramic Seamaster Planet Ocean Dark Grey, £21,000

Longines stainless-steel and ceramic HydroConquest GMT, £2,550

Longines stainless-steel and ceramic HydroConquest GMT, £2,550

Breitling stainless-steel Avenger B01 Chronograph 44, £6,350

Breitling stainless-steel Avenger B01 Chronograph 44, £6,350

TAG Heuer gold Carrera Chronograph, £18,750

TAG Heuer gold Carrera Chronograph, £18,750

Zenith stainless-steel Chronomaster Sport, £9,300

Zenith stainless-steel Chronomaster Sport, £9,300

Bell & Ross ceramic BR 03-92 Diver Tara, £4,990

Bell & Ross ceramic BR 03-92 Diver Tara, £4,990

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