How to make your eyes look brighter

If the eyes are a window to our soul, those creases and expression lines around them are the signs of a life well-lived. Still, many of us are keen to find products and tweakments to make us feel our best. Here are some brilliant new releases, alongside some of my old favourites. 

Best for dark circles

The skin around the eyes is thinner than the rest of the face, averaging at about three layers compared to more than 15 elsewhere on the body. It’s why we get dark circles – you can see the capillaries in a way you can’t elsewhere. Vitamin C-rich creams are great for this. iS Clinical C Eye Advance+ is a long-term favourite of mine because it’s not shy about using a higher percentage of actives: 7.5 per cent vitamin C. Powerful yet gentle, this eye treatment also stands out because of its fast-absorbing liquid serum.

iS Clinical C Eye Advance+, £65

Best for eyebags and puffiness

Bags under the eyes are caused by muscle atrophy, where tissues around the eyes weaken, causing stress in the connective tissue. The loss of structure makes the supporting fat move below the eye, causing a puffy appearance. Retinol can help restructure the collagen matrix. And Medik8 Crystal Retinal Ceramide Eye uses retinaldehyde, proven to work up to 11 times faster than retinol. With retinoids, I always suggest starting low and slow, and I like the fact that this product comes in a ladder of progressive strengths. The twin delivery system also produces an ultra-slow release, which helps avoid irritation. 

Medik8 Crystal Retinal Ceramide Eye, £42

Best for tired eyes

These can clearly often be blamed on lack of sleep, when the skin isn’t allowed enough time to repair overnight. Lifestyle factors such as smoking, alcohol and sunbathing don’t help either. A good starting point for refreshing them is using a plumping eye cream like Chantecaille Bio Lifting Eye Cream, whose plant stem cells (nature’s cellular multiplicators) regenerate and nourish the delicate eye area. It contains a tensing agent, plus de-puffing tetrapeptide and “amplifier” hexapeptide. Peptides are amino acids, which are the building blocks of collagen and elastin. This cream comes with a mini metal baton that can be cooled in the fridge to further refresh tired eyes.

Chantecaille Bio Lifting Eye Cream, £196

Best for anti-ageing

Many ageing markers are down to genetics. Most biological ageing is attributed to cellular senescence – when the cells switch off and stop multiplying – and under-eye skin is particularly vulnerable. A potent blend like Eighth Day Renewal Cream helps keep the cellular engine running. Formulated by Dr Anthony Nakhla, a Californian dermatologist, it contains the patent-pending Peptide-Rich Plasma, made up of 24 bioidentical synthetic peptides, vitamin B3 and C, plus growth factors to help target dullness, UV damage and puffiness. 

Eighth Day Renewal Cream, £185

Best for dry skin

Eyes are more susceptible to trans-epidermal water loss, which reduces skin firmness and resilience. For protection, I always reach for Japanese skincare, which has a history of using ingredients derived from silk, which promotes hyaluronic acid and prevents moisture loss. Sensai Lift Remodelling Eye Cream includes Koishimaru silk extract, which is so light that it was once reserved for the Imperial family. Sensai decided to blend it into its formulations after discovering the youthful hands of the silk weavers. Apply daily, using the eye massager tool.

Sensai Remodelling Eye Cream, £148

Best multitasker

Under-eye patches come with a lot of hype. They are pre-soaked in a serum-like solution and create a seal when applied so the product can really penetrate the skin. Shiseido Uplifting and Firming Express Eye Mask is shaped to cover a broader area than is usual, meaning it can tackle issues from dark circles to wrinkles. For an in-clinic-like approach to eye masking, try Swiss Perfection RS-28 Cellular Eye Contour Solution: collagen gel patches with a booster chamber of hyaluronic acid-based formula. When the mix is activated, the mask redefines and plumps. The accompanying Cellular Nourishing eye cream contains iris flower extract to help smooth expression lines. My tip is to keep it in the fridge.

Shiseido Uplifting and Firming Express Eye Mask, £71

Best for hypersensitive skin

Any number of factors can lead to dry and itchy eyes. There’s a little cryo-cooling hack I use on-set or for red-carpet prep that can easily be done at home: Anne Semonin Eye Express Radiance Ice Cubes, which I keep in the freezer. The combination of hyaluronic acid, caffeine, ginkgo biloba and arnica instantly de-puffs, soothes and brightens. The little individually sealed pods are perfect for travelling too. 

Anne Semonin Eye Express Radiance Ice Cubes, €64.50

Best for under-eye hollows

Tear trough injectables can temporarily give a filled-effect for hollows, but they do come with complications, as the hyaluronic acid-based filler can migrate – recent MRI scans show fillers don’t fully dissolve as previously thought. Enter polynucleotides, which are the building blocks of DNA and RNA. London-based oculoplastic surgeon Dr Maryam Zamani tells me that “unlike fillers that just plump, polynucleotides kick-start regeneration, which makes them perfect for those with significant volume deficit, fat herniation [puffiness] and static expression lines.” She recommends Nucleofill Soft Eyes, a non-invasive bio revitalisation treatment – two to three sessions two weeks apart, which can be repeated every three to six months – from £875 per syringe. 

@adeelacrown

Ask Adeela Do you need advice on menopause skin, make-up trends or shaving products? Send your questions to askadeela@ft.com and she will address your concerns in an upcoming column