Clockwise from top left: canard de Challans at Taillevent, Paris; Ballymaloe in Ireland; oyster with caviar at The Sportsman in Kent; Post Ranch Inn, Big Sur; haddock with poached egg at The Wolseley, London; Union Square Café, New York
©Nathan Rawlinson; Kodiak Greenwood

The wonder years

The FT’s Restaurant Insider picks his personal highlights from the past 30 years

The garden at Barwick House

Little Barwick House, Somerset

‘A restaurant with rooms can be run with a certain amount of eccentricity’

Interior of Midland Bank building

Dining venues revive City’s social heart

Broadgate Circle and old Midland Bank hope to lure weekend crowd

Inside Kin Khao

Kin Khao and Los Gatos, San Francisco

‘A hotter version of the dry-fried ribs in turmeric and curry paste left my head tingling’

Jago’s stylish, Spanish-designed premises
©Steve Joyce

Jago, east London

‘Solley’s menus get the attention they deserve at night; by day, Jago is mainly a staff canteen’

Jérôme Aubert (fourth from left) with staff outside Ratapoil
©Eric Valdenaire

Ratapoil and Frenchie, Paris

‘Restaurateurs reported that as the fall in the euro attracts more visitors, business is improving here’

Shikumen’s dining room

Shikumen, London

‘We were here for the Peking duck and the dim sum — and neither disappointed’

Camino’s open kitchen and dining room

Camino, California

‘I have never agreed that service standards in the US are high because the customer controls the tip’

Inside the Patron restaurant in north London
©Jack Davison

London’s new wave of French chefs

Gallic wine bars and bistros are set to open in London

Hawksmoor in Manchester

Hawksmoor, Manchester

The pricing hasn’t changed, although Mancunians do enjoy a special £15 rump-and-chips lunch

Clove Club asks diners to pay upfront

Michelin-starred London restaurant launches ‘Tock’ ticketing system, following Chicago example

Pre-prepared restaurant food

Diners can feel cheated when restaurant food is pre-prepared elsewhere. But if it still results in outstanding meals, should we be complaining?

Smoking Goat, Blacklock, Milroy’s, London

‘Soho’s small, intimate ground floors lend themselves to the style of food many want to eat today’

Schwartz’s Deli, Montreal

Join a jostling crowd at a historic institution

Quick bites: A Spaniard in Soho

Hearty farmhouse cooking and an ‘asador’ wood-fired oven inspire Brindisa’s latest London outpost

The Restaurant at Meadowood, Napa Valley

‘Without a menu, the diner is flying blind, placing all his trust in the chef’

Fasano Lobby Bar, São Paulo

A wood-panelled sanctuary in a frenzied city

The Chancery, London

‘The Anglo-French brigade is fitting since the restaurant feels Parisian, though the location is old London’

Bold Street Coffee, Liverpool

A popular joint in a transformed historic centre

Nusr-et and Qbara, Dubai

‘Sayadieh – black cod with spiced rice, served in the metal dish it had been cooked in – was addictive’