The Simone, Camino, Chefs Warehouse & Canteen, Maison du Colombier, Barrafina, Taberna do Mercado
©Lindsay D’Addato; Paul Winch-Furness; Flore D

Moreish restaurants of the year

‘I still recall the slow-cooked eggs with summer truffles . . . the yellowfin tuna with cara cara orange’

The North Bridge Brasserie
©Nicholas Yarsley

North Bridge Brasserie, Edinburgh

A testament to the old-time might of newspapers

The dining room at Brae
©Colin Page

Brae, Birregurra, Victoria, Australia

‘The most astonishing thing we ate looked like a prawn cracker but had a delicious echo of beef dripping. What was it?’

Suvlaki’s postmodern concrete columns

Suvlaki, Soho

‘What happened to the kebab? Surely it must be time to reappropriate the healthy, grilled lamb flatbread’

Dirt Candy, Sweetgreen and Dovetail in New York

‘The textures, flavours and colours revealed why this style of cooking can be so rewarding’

The White Spoon dining room

The White Spoon, Cheltenham

‘While there is pride in ingredients, there is no feeling of robust joy in the food; there is innovation but little inspiration’

Bar chef Rob Simpson
©Charlie Bibby

The Clove Club, London

‘Today’s bar chefs take advantage of what the kitchen is producing as the base material for cocktails’

The services’ vaulted dining space
©Mark Lord

Gloucester Services, miracle off the M5

‘Where normal service stations offer irradiated pasties and low-grade pornography, Gloucester has hand-raised pies and a small bookshop’

Alan Yau, restarateur
©Niall McDiarmid

The Yau factor

Our autumn food special kicks off with Alan Yau, the mastermind behind Wagamama whose latest project, Park Chinois, brings old-fashioned glamour back to Mayfair

Place to Eat, Da Vinci's restaurant in Juba, South Sudan
©Katrina Manson

Da Vinci Lodge, South Sudan

Busy Nile restaurant with crocodile on the menu

Private equity feasts on restaurant sector

Private equity’s appetite shows no sign of abating

Estiatorio Milos, Regent Street, London

‘These new openings are bringing life back to old London buildings that are no longer attractive for retail or office use’

The Ivy, London

‘I have a longstanding grouse with the bookings arrangements of London’s über-brasseries’

Maison du Colombier, Burgundy

‘A menu of “small plates” in Burgundy, home of “la grande bouffe”, comes as a shock’

The Marram Grass, Anglesey

‘The mussels were stupidly fresh and cooked just enough to set their plump cushions of fat’

Dinings, London

‘My seat is perhaps the most dangerous I have ever occupied in any restaurant anywhere’

aA Design Museum, Seoul

Café has a warehouse feel and is scattered with arty objects from its owner’s collection

The pub’s progress

Two London examples show how the gastropub has become the British equivalent of the bistro or osteria

Casse-Croûte, London

‘I wonder what the waiter saw in my demeanour that made him say, “ . . . and of course, for Monsieur, the tripe”’

Wallfish Bistro, Bristol

‘A whacking slab of turbot, along with the whole Portland crab, was proof of Curry’s pedigree’


Martin Sandbu

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