The services’ vaulted dining space
©Mark Lord

Gloucester Services, miracle off the M5

‘Where normal service stations offer irradiated pasties and low-grade pornography, Gloucester has hand-raised pies and a small bookshop’

Alan Yau, restarateur
©Niall McDiarmid

The Yau factor

Our autumn food special kicks off with Alan Yau, the mastermind behind Wagamama whose latest project, Park Chinois, brings old-fashioned glamour back to Mayfair

Place to Eat, Da Vinci's restaurant in Juba, South Sudan
©Katrina Manson

Da Vinci Lodge, South Sudan

Busy Nile restaurant with crocodile on the menu

Private equity feasts on restaurant sector

Private equity’s appetite shows no sign of abating

Estiatorio Milos’s interior
©Rosie Hallam

Estiatorio Milos, Regent Street, London

‘These new openings are bringing life back to old London buildings that are no longer attractive for retail or office use’

The Ivy after its renovation
©Jack Eastham

The Ivy, London

‘I have a longstanding grouse with the bookings arrangements of London’s über-brasseries’

Maison du Colombier, Burgundy

Maison du Colombier, Burgundy

‘A menu of “small plates” in Burgundy, home of “la grande bouffe”, comes as a shock’

Liam and Ellis Barrie

The Marram Grass, Anglesey

‘The mussels were stupidly fresh and cooked just enough to set their plump cushions of fat’

Dinings’ signature sushi dishes
©Charlie Bibby

Dinings, London

‘My seat is perhaps the most dangerous I have ever occupied in any restaurant anywhere’

aA Design Museum, Hongdae, Seoul, South Korea
©Jiri Matousek

aA Design Museum, Seoul

Cool café below exhibition floor is scattered with arty objects

The pub’s progress

Two London examples show how the gastropub has become the British equivalent of the bistro or osteria

Casse-Croûte, London

‘I wonder what the waiter saw in my demeanour that made him say, “ . . . and of course, for Monsieur, the tripe”’

Wallfish Bistro, Bristol

‘A whacking slab of turbot, along with the whole Portland crab, was proof of Curry’s pedigree’

Restaurant Christophe Bacquié, Le Castellet, France

‘Every dish consisted of too many bowls and side dishes that required the waiters to return too often’

Wormwood, London

Chef-owner Rabah Ourrad’s original career was as the leading rap artist in his native Algeria

Chutney Mary, London

‘The reincarnation of Chutney Mary in this space, once the esteemed Prunier’s, may be Mathrani’s greatest challenge’

Le Rest(o!, Arcachon

‘The restaurant overlooks the most extraordinarily wonderful views I have ever enjoyed’

Granger & Co, London

‘The ricotta pancakes are now so popular in Japan that they have become the design for a keyring’

Costa Brava, Spain

‘The inspiration for our mains was local — succulent pieces of octopus and paella with a profusion of squid’

Animal, Los Angeles

‘There was succulent marrow inside a roast bone; poutine lusciously topped with chunks of oxtail’


Martin Sandbu

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