The exterior of Noble Rot
©Juan Trujillo Andrades

Noble Rot, London

‘The black wooden panelling and fireplace give the space the air of an old Amsterdam coffee house’

Hawksmoor founders. Will Beckett and Huw Gott at Hawksmoor in Air St. 1/02/16
©Anna Gordon

Hawksmoor: a lot to chew on in Big Apple

The English steakhouse chain is taking its menu to New York

©Mary Costa

Redbird, Los Angeles

Downtown revival is embodied at restaurant in former cathedral

LONDON, ENGLAND - JUNE 04: A general view of Curzon Street on June 4, 2009 in London. (Photo by Bruno Vincent/Bruno Vincent)

Mayfair restaurants are off

Chefs packing up and cashing in on soaring West End rents

Black Axe Mangal restaurant
©Lewis Khan

Black Axe Mangal, London

‘The bread has been laid down, smeared with a bass of gutty earthiness and then topped with a screaming solo’

‘World’s best restaurant’ chef found dead

Apparent suicide casts shadow over Michelin guide launch

L’Assiette Champenoise’s dining room
©Gerald Malaise

L’Assiette Champenoise, Reims, France

‘The fondue of salsify with black truffles was a wonderful combination of a cheap vegetable given an injection of luxury’

The restaurant’s interior
©Issy Croker

Lurra, London

‘The slow roasting retains every millilitre of juice. One mouthful of lamb had the texture of a poached oyster’

Michelin chefs take à la carte off menu

Diners offered tasting selection in bid to cut food waste

The dining room at Vezené

Vezené, Athens

‘Vezené has cleverly designed a restaurant whose menu defines what so many of today’s customers are looking for’

Bellanger, London

‘Alsace, Austria and Switzerland might once have been home to this kind of grand restaurant but they also had some bloody awful food’

Politically correct McD’s is on a roll

The burger chain is adjusting to more modern marketing methods

We’ll still always have Paris

‘The Vifian brothers manage to unite the seemingly disparate worlds of Vietnamese food and top French wines’

Maison Troisgros, Roanne, France

‘Our desserts and petits fours followed the same pattern — simple, strong flavours, with an inspired twist’

The Little Viet Kitchen, London

‘Lemongrass eight-hour braised oxtail is the kind of thing that jumps out of a specials board and grabs you by the throat’

Bar review: Oriole

For cocktails that dazzle the eye and palate, head to the bowels of Smithfield market

Moreish restaurants of the year

‘I still recall the slow-cooked eggs with summer truffles . . . the yellowfin tuna with cara cara orange’

North Bridge Brasserie, Edinburgh

Hotel brasserie in former offices of The Scotsman is testament to the old-time might of newspapers

Brae, Birregurra, Victoria, Australia

‘The most astonishing thing we ate looked like a prawn cracker but had a delicious echo of beef dripping. What was it?’

Suvlaki, Soho

‘What happened to the kebab? Surely it must be time to reappropriate the healthy, grilled lamb flatbread’


Martin Sandbu

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