The Guinea Grill, Mayfair, London

The Guinea Grill's dining rooms

‘You know that not only will a mixed grill be on the menu, but that it will be impressive’

Why the BBC’s cookery website is not a recipe for disaster

‘Though Britain is up in arms at the news the BBC is to archive 11,000 free online recipes, there may be cause to quietly cheer the move’

Elegance replaces brash fashion

Sartoria, Savile Row, London

‘Though I love a well-rolled lapel as much as I love a decent meal, I could never quite fit the two into the same evening’

A cabbage roll with a milk foam tea
©Jasper Fry

Recipe: Beef soup rice and cabbage roll

The trio behind Bao in Soho talk about their operation and expansion

The Pitt Boss Plate at Hang Fire Southern Kitchen
©Huw John

Hang Fire Southern Kitchen, Barry

‘The barbecue food they’re turning out in Wales is some of the best I’ve encountered outside the Deep South’

Pidgin’s exterior
©Vivi Pham

Review: Pidgin, London

‘The brown butter cream shouldn’t be on the same plate as celeriac in any sane frame of reference. But it is, and it’s perfect’

Ognosko dining room

Ognisko, London

‘I get through a great deal of meat and this piece, pig-redolent, grill-marked and juicy as all hell, was definitely the best of the year’

The steak-and-chips straitjacket

‘Chefs are tired of explaining the pork and periwinkle foam to customers who listen politely and then order the grilled meat’

Hopper pancake, with array of chutneys
©David Loftus

Hoppers, London

‘Chicken-heart chukka presents the adorable little organs grilled and bathed in sauce: a tour de force in red-hot offal’

Oklava, London
©Manuel Vazquez

Oklava, London

‘Medjool date butter is not one of the aphrodisiac ointments mentioned in myth but it should have been’

‘Pasta carries stories’

A cooks’ tour of Tuscany uncovers some of the secrets of making ‘proper’ pici, orecchiette, tortelli and capelli d’angelo

Black Axe Mangal, London

‘The bread has been laid down, smeared with a bass of gutty earthiness and then topped with a screaming solo’

Lurra, London

‘The slow roasting retains every millilitre of juice. One mouthful of lamb had the texture of a poached oyster’

Blow to heart of the restaurant business

Chefs who drop à la carte rebrand themselves as artist-performers whose work we pay to experience

Bellanger, London

‘Alsace, Austria and Switzerland might once have been home to this kind of grand restaurant but they also had some bloody awful food’

The hard sell

‘We’re used to seeing chefs posing arrogantly, arms crossed, but they’re not really as tough as they look’

The Little Viet Kitchen, London

‘Lemongrass eight-hour braised oxtail is the kind of thing that jumps out of a specials board and grabs you by the throat’

A turkey’s tale

Our desire for a top-quality bird has spawned a unique industry: specialist farms that work flat out from April, slow rearing, hanging and dry plucking

Suvlaki, Soho

‘What happened to the kebab? Surely it must be time to reappropriate the healthy, grilled lamb flatbread’

The White Spoon, Cheltenham

‘While there is pride in ingredients, there is no feeling of robust joy in the food; there is innovation but little inspiration’

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