Tanneries in Fes, where hides are processed in vats of pigeon dung and urine before being dyed
©John Gimlette

Fes: where modern life gets lost in 9,000 alleyways

A new airport terminal outside the Moroccan city could see visitor numbers soar, but for now it remains deeply rooted in the past

On safari in Chad

The central African nation is one of the world’s least-visited countries but a new safari camp, and rising numbers of animals, make it an exhilarating alternative

An elephant wanders near the camp at Hoanib in the Namib desert
©Olwen Evans

On Namibia’s Skeleton Coast

A new camp in one of the loneliest spots on earth offers wildlife, high-end style and space to think. Carole Cadwalladr reports

A mountain gorilla in Virunga national park

Gorillas and volcanoes in the DR Congo

After two decades of conflict, the southern section of Virunga – Africa’s oldest national park – is cautiously reopening to tourists

Great Walks: Ethiopia’s clifftop churches

A new chain of community-run guesthouses is opening up Tigray’s dramatic landscapes

A trek to the ancient cliff churches of Tigray, Ethiopia

New community-run guesthouses are opening up the dramatic landscape of Tigray to trekkers

©Richard Dunwoody

An African odyssey

A classic overland adventure from Khartoum to Cairo

The savannah landscape of Akagera National Park
©Ken Kochey

Rwanda, 20 years on

Two decades after the genocide, Sophy Roberts visits Akagera National Park – once overrun by refugees but now being rediscovered by a growing number of visitors

Elephants in the Gonarezhou National Park

Return to Zimbabwe

As a BBC reporter in Africa in the 1980s Michael Buerk used to spend his holidays there. Now, as tourists start to come back, he revisits the beautiful but troubled country

Tim Butcher’s daughter Tess
©Tim Butcher

Postcard from ... Botswana

The Okavango Delta is one of the world’s last remaining wilderness areas, unfenced and remote enough to need a light aircraft to access much of it

Under African skies

A new lodge provides a luxury base to explore the striking terrain and wildlife of southern Ethiopia

See a rhino, save a rhino

Poaching is increasing at an alarming rate but, in Botswana and South Africa, tourists can get close to the animals while helping to conserve them

Postcard from . . . Denis Island

The island lodge delivers the desert island fantasy of talcum-soft beaches, freshwater pool and thatched bar

Lost in the Atlas

High-altitude camping in comfort for trekkers exploring the rugged mountains and gorges of Morocco

Haven on earth

Tech entrepreneur and space tourist Mark Shuttleworth has ambitious plans for his west African island retreat

Luxury without losing a sense of place

Amid Marrakech’s profusion of opulent hotels, one property aims to stand out by focusing on local culture

The expert selection: Sustainable safari lodges

Colin Bell and David Bristow list on the camps and lodges that define best environmental practices

Camping with Richard Branson

The Virgin chairman has a new addition to his portfolio of luxury retreats – a tented safari camp in Kenya. Carole Cadwalladr checks in

Marrakech, the hard way

It’s easy to fly to Morocco. Alternatively, one can get there by car, rail and sea, writes George Parker

African adventure on the high seas

Cruises are safe and uneventful, right? Wrong. A luxury voyage around west Africa is one of a new breed of ‘expedition’ tours


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