Recipe: lobster green curry

Lobster green curry
©Andy Sewell

‘Dispatching the lobster yourself needs a little resolve but it is more humane and yields much better results’

Lamb ribs with chilli and spring onion
©Andy Sewell

Recipe: lamb ribs with chilli and spring onion

‘Fattier lamb cuts, such as breast and shoulder, lend themselves well to the spicier cuisines of the Chinese mainland’

Rowley Leigh's chocolate truffle cake
©Andy Sewell

Recipe: chocolate truffle cake

‘My mother’s idea of dessert was a few squares of dark chocolate in a baguette liberally daubed with unsalted butter’

Warm chicken liver mousse
©Andy Sewell

Recipe: warm chicken liver mousse

‘I own an old, blunt-bladed food processor and, when I can find it, a hand-held blender. My mouli-legumes gave up the ghost a year ago’

Pappardelle with artichokes
©Andy Sewell

Recipe: pappardelle with artichokes

‘Many home cooks do not understand the fact that pasta must be rolled and re-rolled to get a really silky result’

Rowley Leigh's leekie pie
©Andy Sewell

Recipe: Leekie pie

‘I have looked to the leek as part of my customary on-off-on Lenten abstinence from meat and alcohol’

Civet de lotte à la camarguaise
©Andy Sewell

Recipe: Civet de lotte à la camarguaise

‘I was surprised to find this Camargue recipe, partly because I had never come across it before, partly because it is so very good’

Raw salmon with avocado, lime and green peppercorns
©Andy Sewell

Recipe: raw salmon with avocado, lime and green peppercorns

‘The peppercorns in the punchy lime dressing only enhance the intrinsic sweetness of the fish‘

Boiled beef and carrots
©Andy Sewell

Boiled beef and carrots

Poaching the meat at low temperature produces a beautifully clear ‘bouillon’

Seafood linguine with cherry tomatoes

‘This year it will be a quiet dinner at home — no poached oysters or heart-shaped chocolate confections’

Lemon drizzle cake

‘This cake, I have now learnt, is a staple in the cafés of National Trust properties’

Apple galette

‘Pudding at this time of year is not a lemon tart from a pâtisserie or a pile of fruit and tubs of ice cream’

Pork cheek vindaloo

Unlike British ‘curries’, adapted from Indian originals, vindaloo is a true hybrid

Steamed beetroots and turnips with lentils

‘Espying the steamer among the usual detritus of a west London flea market, it was love at first sight’

Chestnut and spelt risotto

‘Spelt can be used to make an Italianate Irish stew; it works well in soups; and then there is spelt risotto’

Recipe: venison with bacon and celeriac

I have enrolled on my own Aga anger management course. It involves alcoholic self-medication

A fish called wonder: Salmon en croûte

‘I was playing with the idea of this dish and got a little carried away… and came up with a very festive affair‘

Recipe: radicchio with Stilton, quince and walnuts

Nowadays pickles exist to make things taste more interesting – as good accompaniments to meat or cheese

Salsify and Parma ham rolls and oyster buns

A borrowing here, a tweak there . . . a little culinary plagiarism has gone into these Christmassy snacks

Veal kidneys in mustard sauce

‘I saw myself as Leopold Bloom, padding the streets of Dublin with a precious kidney bought from the “ferreteyed pork butcher”’

ABOUT ROWLEY

Rowley LeighRowley Leigh writes a weekly column on cookery for the FT Weekend supplement.

E-mail rowley.leigh@ft.com

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