The sybarite’s dilemma

Despite being a self-confessed glutton, the chef finds eating in public an embarrassing — even shameful — act

Moroccan chicken salad
©Andy Sewell

Recipe: Moroccan chicken salad with fennel, cherry tomatoes and salt lemons

Till discovering this dish, I had not found a chicken salad I really liked

Hake with potatoes and paprika
©Andy Sewell

Recipe: hake with potatoes and paprika

‘When it is fresh and the meat has an almost translucent, rosy whiteness, it is magnificent’

Apricot and almond tarte fine
©Andy Sewell

Recipe: apricot and almond tarte fine

‘You must cook these mealy and dry fruits, and they will indeed become melting’

Belly pork with fennel
©Andy Sewell

Recipe: belly pork with fennel

‘There is porchetta in most parts of Italy, even if there seems little agreement on what goes into it’

Strawberry rosé jelly
©Andy Sewell

Recipe: strawberry rosé jelly

‘I would smuggle packets of condensed jelly — dense, sweet and chewy — out of my mother’s larder’

Petits pois à la française
©Andy Sewell

Recipe: petits pois à la française and petits pois à l’anglaise

‘Tinned or frozen ones never dilute the pleasure, nay excitement, to be had from a bag of fresh peas’

A prawn cocktail
©Andy Sewell

Recipe: Prawn cocktail

‘I have never been crazy about Marie Rose sauce’

Chicken risotto with nettles
©Andy Sewell

Recipe: chicken risotto with nettles

‘The feral and ferrous quality of nettle leaves is a good counterpoint to dairy ingredients’

White asparagus with carrot purée and sorrel
©Andy Sewell

Recipe: white asparagus with carrot purée and sorrel

‘I do not particularly want to see Twitter pictures of blueberry muffins or eggs Benedict that somebody is about to enjoy’

Recipe: wild rabbit with onions and ramsons

‘As a young farmer in East Sussex, I had a sufficiency of wild garlic and wild rabbits. It seemed obvious to cook them together’

Recipe: lobster green curry

‘Dispatching the lobster yourself needs a little resolve but it is more humane and yields much better results’

Recipe: lamb ribs with chilli and spring onion

‘Fattier lamb cuts, such as breast and shoulder, lend themselves well to the spicier cuisines of the Chinese mainland’

Recipe: chocolate truffle cake

‘My mother’s idea of dessert was a few squares of dark chocolate in a baguette liberally daubed with unsalted butter’

Recipe: warm chicken liver mousse

‘I own an old, blunt-bladed food processor and, when I can find it, a hand-held blender. My mouli-legumes gave up the ghost a year ago’

Recipe: pappardelle with artichokes

‘Many home cooks do not understand the fact that pasta must be rolled and re-rolled to get a really silky result’

Recipe: Leekie pie

‘I have looked to the leek as part of my customary on-off-on Lenten abstinence from meat and alcohol’

Recipe: Civet de lotte à la camarguaise

‘I was surprised to find this Camargue recipe, partly because I had never come across it before, partly because it is so very good’

Recipe: raw salmon with avocado, lime and green peppercorns

‘The peppercorns in the punchy lime dressing only enhance the intrinsic sweetness of the fish‘

Boiled beef and carrots

Poaching the meat at low temperature produces a beautifully clear ‘bouillon’

ABOUT ROWLEY

Rowley LeighRowley Leigh writes a weekly column on cookery for the FT Weekend supplement.

E-mail rowley.leigh@ft.com

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