Torta Pasqualina

Rowley Leigh's Torta Pasqualina
©Andy Sewell

‘Whether in chocolate or in paint, Easter has always celebrated that potent symbol of rebirth’

Rowley Leigh's chicken with morels
©Andy Sewell

Recipe – chicken with morels

‘You either love morels or you don’t. I have known people not to get the point, despite their succulence and long, savoury flavour’

Rowley Leigh's spaghetti with bottarga
©Andy Sewell

Recipe: spaghetti with bottarga

‘The best bottarga is made with the roe of an unfashionable fish, the grey mullet’

Rowley Leigh's Goan fish curry
©Andy Sewell

Recipe: a Goan fish curry

‘For British cuisine truly to come of age, we must come to terms with our Indian diet and work it into our repertoire’

©Andy Sewell

Recipe: sea bass en papillote

‘I blame the telly – the way a dish looks has become much more important than the way it smells or tastes’

la sauce au vin du Médoc
©Andy Sewell

Recipe – la sauce au vin du Médoc

‘Elizabeth David described it as an act of faith to continue with the recipe as it was written’

Rowley Leigh's Seville orange tart
©Andy Sewell

Recipe: Seville orange tart

‘If you are to follow today’s recipe you have to act now. Seville oranges have a very, very short season’

Rowley Leigh's Steak au poivre
©Andy Sewell

Recipe: steak au poivre

‘If a fried egg was the 11-plus of cookery, I think a peppered steak might be a good GCSE or even A-level’

Rowley Leigh's ham hock with lentils
©Andy Sewell

Recipe: ham hock with lentils

‘This dish is still on the brasserie’s menu – though it costs a bit more than the handful of francs I paid in 1978’

Kipper pate
©Andy Sewell

Recipe: kipper pâté

‘Kippers are still made in various sites dotted around the British coast, and they taste as good as they ever did’

Recipe: pain perdu

‘Like Marie Antoinette, we might just have “forgotten” brioche, but it’s hard to envisage “leftover” panettone’

Recipe: pickled herring and beetroot

‘If you do chance across fresh herrings and a willing filleter, then good home-pickled herring is hard to beat’

Recipe: Parmesan custard with anchovy toast

The idea of a cheese-flavoured custard baked in a little pot and then served with little anchovy fingers gradually formed...

A Yule for two

Even the smallest festive gathering can be huge culinary fun. As these recipes show, the key is to think simple yet sybaritic

Recipe: fonduta

‘Heat is necessary to exploit the aroma and yet white truffles should never be cooked’

Recipe: fonduta

‘Heat is necessary properly to exploit the aroma and yet white truffles should never be cooked’

Recipe: Soufflé Vendôme

‘Though it is made with modest ingredients, the soufflé is aspirational’

Recipe: tonno alla stemperata

‘The Sicilians bake tuna, braise it with wine and vinegar or stew it for an hour – and it tastes infinitely better’

Recipe: tonno alla stemperata

‘The Sicilians bake tuna, braise it with wine and vinegar or stew it for an hour – and it tastes infinitely better’

Recipe: kedgeree and garam masala

‘Kedgeree slowly became a mainstay of the British diet – I was virtually brought up on it’

ABOUT ROWLEY

Rowley LeighRowley Leigh writes a weekly column on cookery for the FT Weekend supplement.

E-mail rowley.leigh@ft.com

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