Fish pie

Fish pie
©Andy Sewell

‘I like tomatoes in my fish pie. My mother put them in and I have never seen fit to contradict her’

Baked apples
©Andy Sewell

Baked apples

‘Some apples stay firm when cooked, and some collapse, but only the Bramley positively explodes’

Chickpea and spinach soup
©Andy Sewell

Chickpea and spinach soup

The Languedoc is infused with favourite ingredients – anchovies, ceps, truffles and did I say anchovies?

Peppered rack of venison with pears
©Andy Sewell

Peppered rack of venison with pears

‘I used fallow deer on this occasion, its meat having a rich fondant quality’

Onglet à l’échalote
©Andy Sewell

Onglet à l’échalote

I wonder sometimes what happens to the rest of the animal, so ubiquitous is the unusual cut of ‘onglet’ on the tables of Paris restaurants

Soufflé suissesse with tomato and anchovy sauce
©Andy Sewell

Soufflé suissesse with tomato and anchovy sauce

The ‘soufflé suissesse’ is exceptionally light in texture – but do not let this deceive you

Griddled scallops with chestnut purée, shiso leaves and lemon
©Andy Sewell

Griddled scallops with chestnut purée, shiso leaves and lemon

‘I treated the scallops like lamb and served them with a pea purée and a version of mint sauce’

A dish of sardines in saor
©Andy Sewell

Sardines in saor and sardine pâté

Most traditional methods of preserving fish survive only because we have developed an addiction to the taste

Rowley Leigh's escalivada
©Andy Sewell

Escalivada

The smokiness imparted by the proximity to a naked flame is essential to the flavour of this dish

Illustration by David Sparshott of foraged food
©David Sparshott

The natural food debate: not wild, just crazy

The passion for all things foraged is getting silly. Why the fuss over strange weeds rather than fish, game or berries?

Pork chop with peperonata

The chops should be just cooked through but still juicy and very moist

Cavatelli al pesto

‘The cavatelli formed little ribbed, hollow lozenges that collected every drop of sauce’

Petits farcis

There are as many ‘petits farcis’ as there are cooks but stuffing vegetables should be about intelligent use of leftovers

Roast duck with cherries

It is the sweet and sour element that gives these cherries their special affinity with the richness of roast duck

Cuttlefish stew with beets, chilli and orange

I know nothing marine that stands up to long cooking or yields so much to a stew as the cuttlefish

Rabbit with orecchiette

I was shown a magnificent plump rabbit. After consultation with my host I resolved that we needed three such beauties

Mussels and potatoes

Near the Puglian coast, in not much more than a Portakabin, we sat down to the piscine feast of our lives

Strawberry pie

While unlikely to be perfect, this pie is as good a taste of an English summer’s day as you could hope for

Cecina and French bean salad

Chickpeas are the common denominator, whether you are eating garbanzos in Valencia or socca in Nice

Tomato, fennel and anchovy tart

There are times when the contents of a tart require a strong casing to keep them in line

ABOUT ROWLEY

Rowley LeighRowley Leigh writes a weekly column on cookery for the FT Weekend supplement.

E-mail rowley.leigh@ft.com

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