Recipe: Swiss chard tian with peas and peppers

©Andy Sewell

‘Think of it as a kind of quiche with more vegetables, stronger flavours and no pastry’

©Andy Sewell

Recipe: lamb cutlets ‘milanese’

‘I like to put a little Parmesan in the crumb — a trick that might be frowned on in Italy — to give extra umami to the proceedings’

©Andy Sewell

Recipe: Gnocchi Romana, baked artichoke

‘Though usually made from potato, gnocchi are even easier to master using semolina flour’

©Andy Sewell

Recipe: crab cakes with Thai slaw

‘They are made with excellent little packets of white and brown meat, freshly caught in my local supermarket’

Asparagus and tomatoes with tonnata sauce
©Andy Sewell

Recipe: asparagus and tomatoes with tonnata sauce

‘Cooking tuna to the same melting consistency and cooked all the way through is not so easy. But I think I’ve cracked it’

Easter lunch
©Andy Sewell

Hogget heaven

An early Easter feast of shoulder of lamb, followed by ginger custard tart with rhubarb

Leek and pancetta lasagne
©Andy Sewell

Recipe: leek and pancetta lasagne

‘Early March is hardly the peak time for vegetables but leeks are superb at the moment and worth a dish in their own right’

Steamed brill with romanesco, olives and lemon
©Andy Sewell

Recipes: steamed brill with romanesco, roast pineapple with pain perdu

Perfectly paired for Valentine’s night: a steamed fresh fish and a very rich pud

Pot-au-feu
©Andy Sewell

Rowley Leigh: simple pot-au-feu

‘This is the sort of dish one returns to like an old friend’

Bread pudding with ceps and radicchio
©Andy Sewell

Recipe: bread pudding with ceps and radicchio

Mushrooms, cloves, shallots . . . who said bread puddings had to be sweet — or made with leftovers?

Recipe: chicken, sweetbread, ham and artichoke pie

‘Robust foods like this and prodigious eating are hardly in fashion’

Recipe: pigeon, beetroot and blueberry salad

‘If you want to sell a dish, tagging it to the word salad does no harm whatsoever’

This bold stand against tipping is long overdue

The move is a logical response to the skill shortage in most leading world capitals

Recipe: Dover sole with shrimps and tomato

There used to be at least 20 different ways to prepare sole. But, for the purist, a voluptuous cream sauce is the time-honoured embellishment

The sybarite’s dilemma

Despite being a self-confessed glutton, the chef finds eating in public an embarrassing — even shameful — act

Recipe: Moroccan chicken salad with fennel, cherry tomatoes and salt lemons

Till discovering this dish, I had not found a chicken salad I really liked

Recipe: hake with potatoes and paprika

‘When it is fresh and the meat has an almost translucent, rosy whiteness, it is magnificent’

Recipe: apricot and almond tarte fine

‘You must cook these mealy and dry fruits, and they will indeed become melting’

Recipe: belly pork with fennel

‘There is porchetta in most parts of Italy, even if there seems little agreement on what goes into it’

Recipe: strawberry rosé jelly

‘I would smuggle packets of condensed jelly — dense, sweet and chewy — out of my mother’s larder’

ABOUT ROWLEY

Rowley LeighRowley Leigh writes a weekly column on cookery for the FT Weekend supplement.

E-mail rowley.leigh@ft.com

To receive an email alert for Rowley Leigh, sign up at the top of any his columns.

SHARE THIS QUOTE