Recipes: steamed brill with romanesco, roast pineapple with pain perdu

Steamed brill with romanesco, olives and lemon
©Andy Sewell

Perfectly paired for Valentine’s night: a steamed fresh fish and a very rich pud

©Andy Sewell

Rowley Leigh: simple pot-au-feu

‘This is the sort of dish one returns to like an old friend’

Bread pudding with ceps and radicchio
©Andy Sewell

Recipe: bread pudding with ceps and radicchio

Mushrooms, cloves, shallots . . . who said bread puddings had to be sweet — or made with leftovers?

Chicken, sweetbread, ham and artichoke pie
©Andy Sewell

Recipe: chicken, sweetbread, ham and artichoke pie

‘Robust foods like this and prodigious eating are hardly in fashion’

Pigeon, beetroot and blueberry salad
©Andy Sewell

Recipe: pigeon, beetroot and blueberry salad

‘If you want to sell a dish, tagging it to the word salad does no harm whatsoever’

Tipping varies widely across the globe; in New York up to 20% is the norm, in Tokyo and Paris tips are not expected
©Dreamstime; Bloomberg; Getty Images

This bold stand against tipping is long overdue

The move is a logical response to the skill shortage in most leading world capitals

Dover sole with shrimps and tomato
©Andy Sewell

Recipe: Dover sole with shrimps and tomato

For the purist, a voluptuous cream sauce is the time-honoured embellishment to sole

The sybarite’s dilemma

Despite being a self-confessed glutton, the chef finds eating in public an embarrassing — even shameful — act

Moroccan chicken salad
©Andy Sewell

Recipe: Moroccan chicken salad with fennel, cherry tomatoes and salt lemons

Till discovering this dish, I had not found a chicken salad I really liked

Hake with potatoes and paprika
©Andy Sewell

Recipe: hake with potatoes and paprika

‘When it is fresh and the meat has an almost translucent, rosy whiteness, it is magnificent’

Recipe: apricot and almond tarte fine

‘You must cook these mealy and dry fruits, and they will indeed become melting’

Recipe: belly pork with fennel

‘There is porchetta in most parts of Italy, even if there seems little agreement on what goes into it’

Recipe: strawberry rosé jelly

‘I would smuggle packets of condensed jelly — dense, sweet and chewy — out of my mother’s larder’

Recipe: petits pois à la française and petits pois à l’anglaise

‘Tinned or frozen ones never dilute the pleasure, nay excitement, to be had from a bag of fresh peas’

Recipe: Prawn cocktail

‘I have never been crazy about Marie Rose sauce’

Recipe: chicken risotto with nettles

‘The feral and ferrous quality of nettle leaves is a good counterpoint to dairy ingredients’

Recipe: white asparagus with carrot purée and sorrel

‘I do not particularly want to see Twitter pictures of blueberry muffins or eggs Benedict that somebody is about to enjoy’

Recipe: wild rabbit with onions and ramsons

‘As a young farmer in East Sussex, I had a sufficiency of wild garlic and wild rabbits. It seemed obvious to cook them together’

Recipe: lobster green curry

‘Dispatching the lobster yourself needs a little resolve but it is more humane and yields much better results’

Recipe: lamb ribs with chilli and spring onion

‘Fattier lamb cuts, such as breast and shoulder, lend themselves well to the spicier cuisines of the Chinese mainland’


Rowley LeighRowley Leigh writes a weekly column on cookery for the FT Weekend supplement.


To receive an email alert for Rowley Leigh, sign up at the top of any his columns.

Enter job search