Salsify and Parma ham rolls and oyster buns

Oyster buns
©Andy Sewell

A borrowing here, a tweak there . . . a little culinary plagiarism has gone into these Christmassy snacks

Veal kidneys in mustard sauce
©Andy Sewell

Veal kidneys in mustard sauce

‘I saw myself as Leopold Bloom, padding the streets of Dublin with a precious kidney bought from the “ferreteyed pork butcher”’

Rowley Leigh in Hong Kong
©Kurt Tong

Shopping and cooking in Hong Kong, part two

In his final report from Hong Kong, Rowley Leigh goes in search of some poultry

Rowley Leigh in Hong Kong
©Kurt Tong

Shopping and cooking in Hong Kong, part one

In the first of two reports, Rowley Leigh hits the city’s bustling ‘wet’ markets

Fish pie
©Andy Sewell

Fish pie

‘I like tomatoes in my fish pie. My mother put them in and I have never seen fit to contradict her’

Baked apples
©Andy Sewell

Baked apples

‘Some apples stay firm when cooked, and some collapse, but only the Bramley positively explodes’

Chickpea and spinach soup
©Andy Sewell

Chickpea and spinach soup

The Languedoc is infused with favourite ingredients – anchovies, ceps, truffles and did I say anchovies?

Peppered rack of venison with pears
©Andy Sewell

Peppered rack of venison with pears

‘I used fallow deer on this occasion, its meat having a rich fondant quality’

Onglet à l’échalote
©Andy Sewell

Onglet à l’échalote

I wonder sometimes what happens to the rest of the animal, so ubiquitous is the unusual cut of ‘onglet’ on the tables of Paris restaurants

Soufflé suissesse with tomato and anchovy sauce
©Andy Sewell

Soufflé suissesse with tomato and anchovy sauce

The ‘soufflé suissesse’ is exceptionally light in texture – but do not let this deceive you

Griddled scallops with chestnut purée, shiso leaves and lemon

‘I treated the scallops like lamb and served them with a pea purée and a version of mint sauce’

Sardines in saor and sardine pâté

Most traditional methods of preserving fish survive only because we have developed an addiction to the taste

Escalivada

The smokiness imparted by the proximity to a naked flame is essential to the flavour of this dish

The natural food debate: not wild, just crazy

The passion for all things foraged is getting silly. Why the fuss over strange weeds rather than fish, game or berries?

Pork chop with peperonata

The chops should be just cooked through but still juicy and very moist

Cavatelli al pesto

‘The cavatelli formed little ribbed, hollow lozenges that collected every drop of sauce’

Petits farcis

There are as many ‘petits farcis’ as there are cooks but stuffing vegetables should be about intelligent use of leftovers

Roast duck with cherries

It is the sweet and sour element that gives these cherries their special affinity with the richness of roast duck

Cuttlefish stew with beets, chilli and orange

I know nothing marine that stands up to long cooking or yields so much to a stew as the cuttlefish

Rabbit with orecchiette

I was shown a magnificent plump rabbit. After consultation with my host I resolved that we needed three such beauties

ABOUT ROWLEY

Rowley LeighRowley Leigh writes a weekly column on cookery for the FT Weekend supplement.

E-mail rowley.leigh@ft.com

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