Recipe: strawberry rosé jelly

Strawberry rosé jelly
©Andy Sewell

‘I would smuggle packets of condensed jelly — dense, sweet and chewy — out of my mother’s larder’

Petits pois à la française
©Andy Sewell

Recipe: petits pois à la française and petits pois à l’anglaise

‘Tinned or frozen ones never dilute the pleasure, nay excitement, to be had from a bag of fresh peas’

A prawn cocktail
©Andy Sewell

Recipe: Prawn cocktail

‘I have never been crazy about Marie Rose sauce’

Chicken risotto with nettles
©Andy Sewell

Recipe: chicken risotto with nettles

‘The feral and ferrous quality of nettle leaves is a good counterpoint to dairy ingredients’

White asparagus with carrot purée and sorrel
©Andy Sewell

Recipe: white asparagus with carrot purée and sorrel

‘I do not particularly want to see Twitter pictures of blueberry muffins or eggs Benedict that somebody is about to enjoy’

Wild rabbit stew with onions and ramsons
©Andy Sewell

Recipe: wild rabbit with onions and ramsons

‘As a young farmer in East Sussex, I had a sufficiency of wild garlic and wild rabbits. It seemed obvious to cook them together’

Lobster green curry
©Andy Sewell

Recipe: lobster green curry

‘Dispatching the lobster yourself needs a little resolve but it is more humane and yields much better results’

Lamb ribs with chilli and spring onion
©Andy Sewell

Recipe: lamb ribs with chilli and spring onion

‘Fattier lamb cuts, such as breast and shoulder, lend themselves well to the spicier cuisines of the Chinese mainland’

Rowley Leigh's chocolate truffle cake
©Andy Sewell

Recipe: chocolate truffle cake

‘My mother’s idea of dessert was a few squares of dark chocolate in a baguette liberally daubed with unsalted butter’

Warm chicken liver mousse
©Andy Sewell

Recipe: warm chicken liver mousse

‘I own an old, blunt-bladed food processor and, when I can find it, a hand-held blender. My mouli-legumes gave up the ghost a year ago’

Recipe: pappardelle with artichokes

‘Many home cooks do not understand the fact that pasta must be rolled and re-rolled to get a really silky result’

Recipe: Leekie pie

‘I have looked to the leek as part of my customary on-off-on Lenten abstinence from meat and alcohol’

Recipe: Civet de lotte à la camarguaise

‘I was surprised to find this Camargue recipe, partly because I had never come across it before, partly because it is so very good’

Recipe: raw salmon with avocado, lime and green peppercorns

‘The peppercorns in the punchy lime dressing only enhance the intrinsic sweetness of the fish‘

Boiled beef and carrots

Poaching the meat at low temperature produces a beautifully clear ‘bouillon’

Seafood linguine with cherry tomatoes

‘This year it will be a quiet dinner at home — no poached oysters or heart-shaped chocolate confections’

Lemon drizzle cake

‘This cake, I have now learnt, is a staple in the cafés of National Trust properties’

Apple galette

‘Pudding at this time of year is not a lemon tart from a pâtisserie or a pile of fruit and tubs of ice cream’

Pork cheek vindaloo

Unlike British ‘curries’, adapted from Indian originals, vindaloo is a true hybrid

Steamed beetroots and turnips with lentils

‘Espying the steamer among the usual detritus of a west London flea market, it was love at first sight’

ABOUT ROWLEY

Rowley LeighRowley Leigh writes a weekly column on cookery for the FT Weekend supplement.

E-mail rowley.leigh@ft.com

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