Recipes: steamed brill with romanesco, roast pineapple with pain perdu

Steamed brill with romanesco, olives and lemon
©Andy Sewell

Perfectly paired for Valentine’s night: a steamed fresh fish and a very rich pud

Pot-au-feu
©Andy Sewell

Rowley Leigh: simple pot-au-feu

‘This is the sort of dish one returns to like an old friend’

Bread pudding with ceps and radicchio
©Andy Sewell

Recipe: bread pudding with ceps and radicchio

Mushrooms, cloves, shallots . . . who said bread puddings had to be sweet — or made with leftovers?

Chicken, sweetbread, ham and artichoke pie
©Andy Sewell

Recipe: chicken, sweetbread, ham and artichoke pie

‘Robust foods like this and prodigious eating are hardly in fashion’

Pigeon, beetroot and blueberry salad
©Andy Sewell

Recipe: pigeon, beetroot and blueberry salad

‘If you want to sell a dish, tagging it to the word salad does no harm whatsoever’

Tipping varies widely across the globe; in New York up to 20% is the norm, in Tokyo and Paris tips are not expected
©Dreamstime; Bloomberg; Getty Images

This bold stand against tipping is long overdue

The move is a logical response to the skill shortage in most leading world capitals

Dover sole with shrimps and tomato
©Andy Sewell

Recipe: Dover sole with shrimps and tomato

For the purist, a voluptuous cream sauce is the time-honoured embellishment to sole

The sybarite’s dilemma

Despite being a self-confessed glutton, the chef finds eating in public an embarrassing — even shameful — act

Moroccan chicken salad
©Andy Sewell

Recipe: Moroccan chicken salad with fennel, cherry tomatoes and salt lemons

Till discovering this dish, I had not found a chicken salad I really liked

Hake with potatoes and paprika
©Andy Sewell

Recipe: hake with potatoes and paprika

‘When it is fresh and the meat has an almost translucent, rosy whiteness, it is magnificent’

Recipe: apricot and almond tarte fine

‘You must cook these mealy and dry fruits, and they will indeed become melting’

Recipe: belly pork with fennel

‘There is porchetta in most parts of Italy, even if there seems little agreement on what goes into it’

Recipe: strawberry rosé jelly

‘I would smuggle packets of condensed jelly — dense, sweet and chewy — out of my mother’s larder’

Recipe: petits pois à la française and petits pois à l’anglaise

‘Tinned or frozen ones never dilute the pleasure, nay excitement, to be had from a bag of fresh peas’

Recipe: Prawn cocktail

‘I have never been crazy about Marie Rose sauce’

Recipe: chicken risotto with nettles

‘The feral and ferrous quality of nettle leaves is a good counterpoint to dairy ingredients’

Recipe: white asparagus with carrot purée and sorrel

‘I do not particularly want to see Twitter pictures of blueberry muffins or eggs Benedict that somebody is about to enjoy’

Recipe: wild rabbit with onions and ramsons

‘As a young farmer in East Sussex, I had a sufficiency of wild garlic and wild rabbits. It seemed obvious to cook them together’

Recipe: lobster green curry

‘Dispatching the lobster yourself needs a little resolve but it is more humane and yields much better results’

Recipe: lamb ribs with chilli and spring onion

‘Fattier lamb cuts, such as breast and shoulder, lend themselves well to the spicier cuisines of the Chinese mainland’

ABOUT ROWLEY

Rowley LeighRowley Leigh writes a weekly column on cookery for the FT Weekend supplement.

E-mail rowley.leigh@ft.com

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