Recipe: raw salmon with avocado, lime and green peppercorns

Raw salmon with avocado, lime and green peppercorns
©Andy Sewell

‘The peppercorns in the punchy lime dressing only enhance the intrinsic sweetness of the fish‘

Boiled beef and carrots
©Andy Sewell

Boiled beef and carrots

Poaching the meat at low temperature produces a beautifully clear ‘bouillon’

Seafood linguine with cherry tomatoes

‘This year it will be a quiet dinner at home — no poached oysters or heart-shaped chocolate confections’

A slice of Lemon drizzle cake
©Andy Sewell

Lemon drizzle cake

‘This cake, I have now learnt, is a staple in the cafés of National Trust properties’

Apple galette
©Andy Sewell

Apple galette

‘Pudding at this time of year is not a lemon tart from a pâtisserie or a pile of fruit and tubs of ice cream’

Pork cheek vindaloo
©Andy Sewell

Pork cheek vindaloo

Unlike British ‘curries’, adapted from Indian originals, vindaloo is a true hybrid

Rowley Leigh's steamed beetroots and turnips with belugal lentils, pickled garlic and lemon
©Andy Sewell

Steamed beetroots and turnips with lentils

‘Espying the steamer among the usual detritus of a west London flea market, it was love at first sight’

Rowley Leigh's chestnut and spelt risotto
©Andy Sewell

Chestnut and spelt risotto

‘Spelt can be used to make an Italianate Irish stew; it works well in soups; and then there is spelt risotto’

Shoulder of venison with bacon and celeriac
©Andy Sewell

Recipe: venison with bacon and celeriac

I have enrolled on my own Aga anger management course. It involves alcoholic self-medication

Salmon en croûte
©Andy Sewell

A fish called wonder: Salmon en croûte

‘I was playing with the idea of this dish and got a little carried away… and came up with a very festive affair‘

Recipe: radicchio with Stilton, quince and walnuts

Nowadays pickles exist to make things taste more interesting – as good accompaniments to meat or cheese

Salsify and Parma ham rolls and oyster buns

A borrowing here, a tweak there . . . a little culinary plagiarism has gone into these Christmassy snacks

Veal kidneys in mustard sauce

‘I saw myself as Leopold Bloom, padding the streets of Dublin with a precious kidney bought from the “ferreteyed pork butcher”’

Shopping and cooking in Hong Kong, part two

In his final report from Hong Kong, Rowley Leigh goes in search of some poultry

Shopping and cooking in Hong Kong, part one

In the first of two reports, Rowley Leigh hits the city’s bustling ‘wet’ markets

Fish pie

‘I like tomatoes in my fish pie. My mother put them in and I have never seen fit to contradict her’

Baked apples

‘Some apples stay firm when cooked, and some collapse, but only the Bramley positively explodes’

Chickpea and spinach soup

The Languedoc is infused with favourite ingredients – anchovies, ceps, truffles and did I say anchovies?

Peppered rack of venison with pears

‘I used fallow deer on this occasion, its meat having a rich fondant quality’

Onglet à l’échalote

I wonder sometimes what happens to the rest of the animal, so ubiquitous is the unusual cut of ‘onglet’ on the tables of Paris restaurants

ABOUT ROWLEY

Rowley LeighRowley Leigh writes a weekly column on cookery for the FT Weekend supplement.

E-mail rowley.leigh@ft.com

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