Apple galette

Apple galette
©Andy Sewell

‘Pudding at this time of year is not a lemon tart from a pâtisserie or a pile of fruit and tubs of ice cream’

Pork cheek vindaloo
©Andy Sewell

Pork cheek vindaloo

Unlike British ‘curries’, adapted from Indian originals, vindaloo is a true hybrid

Rowley Leigh's steamed beetroots and turnips with belugal lentils, pickled garlic and lemon
©Andy Sewell

Steamed beetroots and turnips with lentils

‘Espying the steamer among the usual detritus of a west London flea market, it was love at first sight’

Rowley Leigh's chestnut and spelt risotto
©Andy Sewell

Chestnut and spelt risotto

‘Spelt can be used to make an Italianate Irish stew; it works well in soups; and then there is spelt risotto’

Shoulder of venison with bacon and celeriac
©Andy Sewell

Recipe: venison with bacon and celeriac

I have enrolled on my own Aga anger management course. It involves alcoholic self-medication

Salmon en croûte
©Andy Sewell

A fish called wonder: Salmon en croûte

‘I was playing with the idea of this dish and got a little carried away… and came up with a very festive affair‘

Radicchio salad with Stilton
©Andy Sewell

Recipe: radicchio with Stilton, quince and walnuts

Nowadays pickles exist to make things taste more interesting – as good accompaniments to meat or cheese

Oyster buns
©Andy Sewell

Salsify and Parma ham rolls and oyster buns

A borrowing here, a tweak there . . . a little culinary plagiarism has gone into these Christmassy snacks

Veal kidneys in mustard sauce
©Andy Sewell

Veal kidneys in mustard sauce

‘I saw myself as Leopold Bloom, padding the streets of Dublin with a precious kidney bought from the “ferreteyed pork butcher”’

Rowley Leigh in Hong Kong
©Kurt Tong

Shopping and cooking in Hong Kong, part two

In his final report from Hong Kong, Rowley Leigh goes in search of some poultry

Shopping and cooking in Hong Kong, part one

In the first of two reports, Rowley Leigh hits the city’s bustling ‘wet’ markets

Fish pie

‘I like tomatoes in my fish pie. My mother put them in and I have never seen fit to contradict her’

Baked apples

‘Some apples stay firm when cooked, and some collapse, but only the Bramley positively explodes’

Chickpea and spinach soup

The Languedoc is infused with favourite ingredients – anchovies, ceps, truffles and did I say anchovies?

Peppered rack of venison with pears

‘I used fallow deer on this occasion, its meat having a rich fondant quality’

Onglet à l’échalote

I wonder sometimes what happens to the rest of the animal, so ubiquitous is the unusual cut of ‘onglet’ on the tables of Paris restaurants

Soufflé suissesse with tomato and anchovy sauce

The ‘soufflé suissesse’ is exceptionally light in texture – but do not let this deceive you

Griddled scallops with chestnut purée, shiso leaves and lemon

‘I treated the scallops like lamb and served them with a pea purée and a version of mint sauce’

Sardines in saor and sardine pâté

Most traditional methods of preserving fish survive only because we have developed an addiction to the taste

Escalivada

The smokiness imparted by the proximity to a naked flame is essential to the flavour of this dish

ABOUT ROWLEY

Rowley LeighRowley Leigh writes a weekly column on cookery for the FT Weekend supplement.

E-mail rowley.leigh@ft.com

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