Cuttlefish stew with beets, chilli and orange

Rowley Leigh's cuttlefish stew with beets, chilli and orange
©Andy Sewell

I know nothing marine that stands up to long cooking or yields so much to a stew as the cuttlefish

Rabbit with orecchiette
©Andy Sewell

Rabbit with orecchiette

I was shown a magnificent plump rabbit. After consultation with my host I resolved that we needed three such beauties

Mussels and potatoes

Near the Puglian coast, in not much more than a Portakabin, we sat down to the piscine feast of our lives

Strawberry pie

Strawberry pie

While unlikely to be perfect, this pie is as good a taste of an English summer’s day as you could hope for

Rowley Leigh's cecina and French bean salad
©Andy Sewell

Cecina and French bean salad

Chickpeas are the common denominator, whether you are eating garbanzos in Valencia or socca in Nice

Rowley Leigh's tomato, fennel and anchovy tart
©Andy Sewell

Tomato, fennel and anchovy tart

There are times when the contents of a tart require a strong casing to keep them in line

Rowley Leigh's spinach sformato with chicken livers
©Andy Sewell

Spinach sformato with chicken livers

‘The sformato is a noble edifice – a typical example of the Italian urge to give classical form to even the simplest ideas’

A plate of guinea fowl with arrabiata sauce
©Andy Sewell

Guinea fowl all’arrabiata

‘Arrabiata is usually applied to pasta but fish, meat and poultry can all be made quite angry when cooked in this way’

Rowley Leigh's broad beans with pancetta
©Andy Sewell

Two recipes with broad beans

‘Broad beans are the sophisticate’s favourite vegetable, even more than fresh peas’

Rowley Leigh's squid, celery and tomato salad
©Andy Sewell

Squid, celery and tomato salad

‘Squid must either be seized very briefly with a fierce heat or gently braised for a long time’

Rosé jelly with rose petals, rhubarb and gariguette strawberries

‘To many, jelly is nothing more than a distant memory from children’s parties. It means a bit more to me’

Tortilla with wild garlic

‘Wild garlic can add great value but, as with most powerful aromatics, a little moderation is required’


‘Being a purist about langoustines, I like them plain, in the shell and with a little mayonnaise’

Torta Pasqualina

‘Whether in chocolate or in paint, Easter has always celebrated that potent symbol of rebirth’

Shoulder of lamb with onions and turnip gratin

‘To compound my Old Testament proclivities, I have cooked this for a long time until it is of a melting consistency’

Recipe – chicken with morels

‘You either love morels or you don’t. I have known people not to get the point, despite their succulence and long, savoury flavour’

Recipe: spaghetti with bottarga

‘The best bottarga is made with the roe of an unfashionable fish, the grey mullet’

Recipe: a Goan fish curry

‘For British cuisine truly to come of age, we must come to terms with our Indian diet and work it into our repertoire’

Recipe: bagna càuda

‘Crudités inspire fear and loathing in the sybaritic but bagna càuda combines virtue and wickedness in equal measure’

Recipe: sea bass en papillote

‘I blame the telly – the way a dish looks has become much more important than the way it smells or tastes’


Rowley LeighRowley Leigh writes a weekly column on cookery for the FT Weekend supplement.


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