Griddled scallops with chestnut purée, shiso leaves and lemon

Griddled scallops with chestnut purée, shiso leaves and lemon
©Andy Sewell

‘I treated the scallops like lamb and served them with a pea purée and a version of mint sauce’

A dish of sardines in saor
©Andy Sewell

Sardines in saor and sardine pâté

Most traditional methods of preserving fish survive only because we have developed an addiction to the taste

Rowley Leigh's escalivada
©Andy Sewell

Escalivada

The smokiness imparted by the proximity to a naked flame is essential to the flavour of this dish

Illustration by David Sparshott of foraged food
©David Sparshott

The natural food debate: not wild, just crazy

The passion for all things foraged is getting silly. Why the fuss over strange weeds rather than fish, game or berries?

Pork chop with peperonata
©Andy Sewell

Pork chop with peperonata

The chops should be just cooked through but still juicy and very moist

Rowley Leigh's cavatelli al pesto
©Andy Sewell

Cavatelli al pesto

‘The cavatelli formed little ribbed, hollow lozenges that collected every drop of sauce’

Rowley Leigh's dish of stuffed vegetables
©Andy Sewell

Petits farcis

There are as many ‘petits farcis’ as there are cooks but stuffing vegetables should be about intelligent use of leftovers

A dish of roast duck with cherries as prepared by Rowley Leigh
©Andy Sewell

Roast duck with cherries

It is the sweet and sour element that gives these cherries their special affinity with the richness of roast duck

Rowley Leigh's cuttlefish stew with beets, chilli and orange
©Andy Sewell

Cuttlefish stew with beets, chilli and orange

I know nothing marine that stands up to long cooking or yields so much to a stew as the cuttlefish

Rabbit with orecchiette
©Andy Sewell

Rabbit with orecchiette

I was shown a magnificent plump rabbit. After consultation with my host I resolved that we needed three such beauties

Mussels and potatoes

Near the Puglian coast, in not much more than a Portakabin, we sat down to the piscine feast of our lives

Strawberry pie

While unlikely to be perfect, this pie is as good a taste of an English summer’s day as you could hope for

Cecina and French bean salad

Chickpeas are the common denominator, whether you are eating garbanzos in Valencia or socca in Nice

Tomato, fennel and anchovy tart

There are times when the contents of a tart require a strong casing to keep them in line

Spinach sformato with chicken livers

‘The sformato is a noble edifice – a typical example of the Italian urge to give classical form to even the simplest ideas’

Guinea fowl all’arrabiata

‘Arrabiata is usually applied to pasta but fish, meat and poultry can all be made quite angry when cooked in this way’

Two recipes with broad beans

‘Broad beans are the sophisticate’s favourite vegetable, even more than fresh peas’

Squid, celery and tomato salad

‘Squid must either be seized very briefly with a fierce heat or gently braised for a long time and with enough liquid to slowly become tender’

Rosé jelly with rose petals, rhubarb and gariguette strawberries

‘To many, jelly is nothing more than a distant memory from children’s parties. It means a bit more to me’

Tortilla with wild garlic

‘Wild garlic can add great value but, as with most powerful aromatics, a little moderation is required’

ABOUT ROWLEY

Rowley LeighRowley Leigh writes a weekly column on cookery for the FT Weekend supplement.

E-mail rowley.leigh@ft.com

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