Moreish restaurants of the year

The Simone, Camino, Chefs Warehouse & Canteen, Maison du Colombier, Barrafina, Taberna do Mercado
©Lindsay D’Addato; Paul Winch-Furness; Flore D

‘I still recall the slow-cooked eggs with summer truffles . . . the yellowfin tuna with cara cara orange’

Studio Qulinarne

Studio Qulinarne and Bottiglieria 1881, Kraków

‘I didn’t expect the quality of the food to be so exciting or the enthusiasm so infectious’

Dirt Candy, Sweetgreen and Dovetail in New York

‘The textures, flavours and colours revealed why this style of cooking can be so rewarding’

Bar chef Rob Simpson
©Charlie Bibby

The Clove Club, London

‘Today’s bar chefs take advantage of what the kitchen is producing as the base material for cocktails’

Estiatorio Milos’s interior
©Rosie Hallam

Estiatorio Milos, Regent Street, London

‘These new openings are bringing life back to old London buildings that are no longer attractive for retail or office use’

Maison du Colombier, Burgundy

Maison du Colombier, Burgundy

‘A menu of “small plates” in Burgundy, home of “la grande bouffe”, comes as a shock’

Dinings’ signature sushi dishes
©Charlie Bibby

Dinings, London

‘My seat is perhaps the most dangerous I have ever occupied in any restaurant anywhere’

The table settings at Restaurant Christophe Bacquié

Restaurant Christophe Bacquié, Le Castellet, France

‘Every dish consisted of too many bowls and side dishes that required the waiters to return too often’

The new home of Chutney Mary
©Richard Booth

Chutney Mary, London

‘The reincarnation of Chutney Mary in this space, once the esteemed Prunier’s, may be Mathrani’s greatest challenge’

Le Rest(o!, with the dunes of the Atlantic coast stretching into the distance
©Vincent Bengold

Le Rest(o!, Arcachon

‘The restaurant overlooks the most extraordinarily wonderful views I have ever enjoyed’

Granger & Co, London

‘The ricotta pancakes are now so popular in Japan that they have become the design for a keyring’

Costa Brava, Spain

‘The inspiration for our mains was local — succulent pieces of octopus and paella with a profusion of squid’

Animal, Los Angeles

‘There was succulent marrow inside a roast bone; poutine lusciously topped with chunks of oxtail’

Take it from the top

The man helping London restaurants to set up their own fruit and vegetable gardens

Taberna do Mercado and The Greek Larder, London

‘My favourite dish was an acorda of cod and cod tripe that had been gently cooked in a salt cod stock with olive oil, salt and coriander’

Sage, Co Cork

‘Shortly after 9pm, craic, that other Irish ingredient, filled the room, helped by delicious desserts’

The wonder years

The FT’s Restaurant Insider picks his personal highlights from the past 30 years

Little Barwick House, Somerset

‘A restaurant with rooms can be run with a certain amount of eccentricity’

Kin Khao and Los Gatos, San Francisco

‘A hotter version of the dry-fried ribs in turmeric and curry paste left my head tingling’

Jago, east London

‘Solley’s menus get the attention they deserve at night; by day, Jago is mainly a staff canteen’


Nicholas LanderNicholas Lander writes a weekly restaurant column for the FT Weekend edition

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