Ho Lee Fook, Hong Kong

Drunken clams (left) with two salads by chef Jowett Yu
©2015 IB Photography Ltd.

‘On the wall by the staircase leading down to the restaurant, gold-plated cats raise their right paw as though in welcome’

The restaurant at Blandford Comptoir

Blandford Comptoir, London

‘The gazpacho zinged with flavour, a risotto was enhanced with Italian summer truffle’

The dining room at Forest Avenue

Forest Avenue, Dublin

‘The menu is brief, the wine list enticing. The pricing is spot on: €25 for two courses and €30 for three’

The dining room at Fera

Fera at Claridge’s, London

‘The duck breast came with two of today’s most favoured vegetables, caramelised cauliflower and smoked beetroot’

Kaupers Restaurant

Kaupers Restaurant im Kapellenhof, Selzen, Germany

‘Pike enjoy nothing more than a duck that comes too close to them in the wild’

Inside Baa Ga Din
©Salit Chairoongruang

Le Du and Baa Ga Din, Bangkok

‘Schultz did an immersion course in Thai street food. His dishes zing with flavour and heat’

Gravetye’s gardens
©Claire Takacs

Gravetye Manor, Sussex

‘The beautiful location and celebrated gardens have inspired chef George Blogg to take his creativity to new heights’

The counter at Tempura Yamanoue
©Toshiki Senoue

Tempura Yamanoue and Narukiyo, Tokyo

‘One of the highlights, a prawn from Kumamoto, was so fresh it could have been eaten as sashimi’

Pavillon Ledoyen’s interior
©Philippe Vaures Santamaria

Alléno Paris — Pavillon Ledoyen

A meal at the Champs-Elysées icon whose clients included Robespierre and Danton, before it closes for refurbishment

Tea ceremony starter
©Charlie Bibby

Yoshino, London

‘Our philosophy here is, “Come in, sit down and let us feed you,” she explained’

The Fat Duck, Bray

‘Those expecting a conventional restaurant experience will be disappointed, but my advice is to go along for the ride’

Noble Rot, London

‘The black wooden panelling and fireplace give the space the air of an old Amsterdam coffee house’

L’Assiette Champenoise, Reims, France

‘The fondue of salsify with black truffles was a wonderful combination of a cheap vegetable given an injection of luxury’

Vezené, Athens

‘Vezené has cleverly designed a restaurant whose menu defines what so many of today’s customers are looking for’

We’ll still always have Paris

‘The Vifian brothers manage to unite the seemingly disparate worlds of Vietnamese food and top French wines’

Maison Troisgros, Roanne, France

‘Our desserts and petits fours followed the same pattern — simple, strong flavours, with an inspired twist’

Moreish restaurants of the year

‘I still recall the slow-cooked eggs with summer truffles . . . the yellowfin tuna with cara cara orange’

Studio Qulinarne and Bottiglieria 1881, Kraków

‘I didn’t expect the quality of the food to be so exciting or the enthusiasm so infectious’

Dirt Candy, Sweetgreen and Dovetail in New York

‘The textures, flavours and colours revealed why this style of cooking can be so rewarding’

The Clove Club, London

‘Today’s bar chefs take advantage of what the kitchen is producing as the base material for cocktails’

ABOUT NICHOLAS

Nicholas LanderNicholas Lander writes a weekly restaurant column for the FT Weekend edition

To receive an email alert for Nicholas Lander, sign up at the top of any his columns.

Enter job search
SHARE THIS QUOTE