Noble Rot, London

The exterior of Noble Rot
©Juan Trujillo Andrades

‘The black wooden panelling and fireplace give the space the air of an old Amsterdam coffee house’

L’Assiette Champenoise’s dining room
©Gerald Malaise

L’Assiette Champenoise, Reims, France

‘The fondue of salsify with black truffles was a wonderful combination of a cheap vegetable given an injection of luxury’

The dining room at Vezené

Vezené, Athens

‘Vezené has cleverly designed a restaurant whose menu defines what so many of today’s customers are looking for’

Robert Vifian in front of his restaurant

We’ll still always have Paris

‘The Vifian brothers manage to unite the seemingly disparate worlds of Vietnamese food and top French wines’

The Maison Troisgros garden
©Jérôme Aubanel

Maison Troisgros, Roanne, France

‘Our desserts and petits fours followed the same pattern — simple, strong flavours, with an inspired twist’

The Simone, Camino, Chefs Warehouse & Canteen, Maison du Colombier, Barrafina, Taberna do Mercado
©Lindsay D’Addato; Paul Winch-Furness; Flore D

Moreish restaurants of the year

‘I still recall the slow-cooked eggs with summer truffles . . . the yellowfin tuna with cara cara orange’

Studio Qulinarne

Studio Qulinarne and Bottiglieria 1881, Kraków

‘I didn’t expect the quality of the food to be so exciting or the enthusiasm so infectious’

Dirt Candy, Sweetgreen and Dovetail in New York

‘The textures, flavours and colours revealed why this style of cooking can be so rewarding’

Bar chef Rob Simpson
©Charlie Bibby

The Clove Club, London

‘Today’s bar chefs take advantage of what the kitchen is producing as the base material for cocktails’

Estiatorio Milos’s interior
©Rosie Hallam

Estiatorio Milos, Regent Street, London

‘These new openings are bringing life back to old London buildings that are no longer attractive for retail or office use’

Maison du Colombier, Burgundy

‘A menu of “small plates” in Burgundy, home of “la grande bouffe”, comes as a shock’

Dinings, London

‘My seat is perhaps the most dangerous I have ever occupied in any restaurant anywhere’

Restaurant Christophe Bacquié, Le Castellet, France

‘Every dish consisted of too many bowls and side dishes that required the waiters to return too often’

Chutney Mary, London

‘The reincarnation of Chutney Mary in this space, once the esteemed Prunier’s, may be Mathrani’s greatest challenge’

Le Rest(o!, Arcachon

‘The restaurant overlooks the most extraordinarily wonderful views I have ever enjoyed’

Granger & Co, London

‘The ricotta pancakes are now so popular in Japan that they have become the design for a keyring’

Costa Brava, Spain

‘The inspiration for our mains was local — succulent pieces of octopus and paella with a profusion of squid’

Animal, Los Angeles

‘There was succulent marrow inside a roast bone; poutine lusciously topped with chunks of oxtail’

Take it from the top

The man helping London restaurants to set up their own fruit and vegetable gardens

Taberna do Mercado and The Greek Larder, London

‘My favourite dish was an acorda of cod and cod tripe that had been gently cooked in a salt cod stock with olive oil, salt and coriander’

ABOUT NICHOLAS

Nicholas LanderNicholas Lander writes a weekly restaurant column for the FT Weekend edition

E-mail Nicholas Lander

To receive an email alert for Nicholas Lander, sign up at the top of any his columns.

Enter job search
SHARE THIS QUOTE