Granger & Co, London

Granger has opened his third London restaurant at King’s Cross
©Petrina Tinslay

‘The ricotta pancakes are now so popular in Japan that they have become the design for a keyring’

The beach view from inside Hostal Empúries

Costa Brava, Spain

‘The inspiration for our mains was local — succulent pieces of octopus and paella with a profusion of squid’

Diners at Animal

Animal, Los Angeles

‘There was succulent marrow inside a roast bone; poutine lusciously topped with chunks of oxtail’

Charles Dowson
©Charlie Bibby

Take it from the top

Charles Dowson is helping London pubs and restaurants to grow their own by making use of space on the roof

The interior of Taberna do Mercardo
©Joe Woodhouse

Taberna do Mercado and The Greek Larder, London

‘My favourite dish was an acorda of cod and cod tripe that had been gently cooked in a salt cod stock with olive oil, salt and coriander’

Sage Restaurant, Midleton, Co Cork

Sage, Co Cork

‘Shortly after 9pm, craic, that other Irish ingredient, filled the room, helped by delicious desserts’

Clockwise from top left: canard de Challans at Taillevent, Paris; Ballymaloe in Ireland; oyster with caviar at The Sportsman in Kent; Post Ranch Inn, Big Sur; haddock with poached egg at The Wolseley, London; Union Square Café, New York
©Nathan Rawlinson; Kodiak Greenwood

The wonder years

The FT’s Restaurant Insider picks his personal highlights from the past 30 years

The garden at Barwick House

Little Barwick House, Somerset

‘A restaurant with rooms can be run with a certain amount of eccentricity’

Inside Kin Khao

Kin Khao and Los Gatos, San Francisco

‘A hotter version of the dry-fried ribs in turmeric and curry paste left my head tingling’

Jago’s stylish, Spanish-designed premises
©Steve Joyce

Jago, east London

‘Solley’s menus get the attention they deserve at night; by day, Jago is mainly a staff canteen’

Ratapoil and Frenchie, Paris

‘Restaurateurs reported that as the fall in the euro attracts more visitors, business is improving here’

Shikumen, London

‘We were here for the Peking duck and the dim sum — and neither disappointed’

Camino, California

‘I have never agreed that service standards in the US are high because the customer controls the tip’

Hawksmoor, Manchester

The pricing hasn’t changed, although Mancunians do enjoy a special £15 rump-and-chips lunch

Smoking Goat, Blacklock, Milroy’s, London

‘Soho’s small, intimate ground floors lend themselves to the style of food many want to eat today’

The Restaurant at Meadowood, Napa Valley

‘Without a menu, the diner is flying blind, placing all his trust in the chef’

The Chancery, London

‘The Anglo-French brigade is fitting since the restaurant feels Parisian, though the location is old London’

Nusr-et and Qbara, Dubai

‘Sayadieh – black cod with spiced rice, served in the metal dish it had been cooked in – was addictive’

Hawker House, London

‘For a snapshot of the exciting food-and drink scene in London, there is nowhere more stimulating’

Rijks, Amsterdam

Fried dough balls were served with oyster ‘braaioli’, a sauce of puréed, grilled oysters

ABOUT NICHOLAS

Nicholas LanderNicholas Lander writes a weekly restaurant column for the FT Weekend edition

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