Estiatorio Milos, Regent Street, London

Estiatorio Milos’s interior
©Rosie Hallam

‘These new openings are bringing life back to old London buildings that are no longer attractive for retail or office use’

Maison du Colombier, Burgundy

Maison du Colombier, Burgundy

‘A menu of “small plates” in Burgundy, home of “la grande bouffe”, comes as a shock’

Dinings’ signature sushi dishes
©Charlie Bibby

Dinings, London

‘My seat is perhaps the most dangerous I have ever occupied in any restaurant anywhere’

The table settings at Restaurant Christophe Bacquié

Restaurant Christophe Bacquié, Le Castellet, France

‘Every dish consisted of too many bowls and side dishes that required the waiters to return too often’

The new home of Chutney Mary
©Richard Booth

Chutney Mary, London

‘The reincarnation of Chutney Mary in this space, once the esteemed Prunier’s, may be Mathrani’s greatest challenge’

Le Rest(o!, with the dunes of the Atlantic coast stretching into the distance
©Vincent Bengold

Le Rest(o!, Arcachon

‘The restaurant overlooks the most extraordinarily wonderful views I have ever enjoyed’

Granger has opened his third London restaurant at King’s Cross
©Petrina Tinslay

Granger & Co, London

‘The ricotta pancakes are now so popular in Japan that they have become the design for a keyring’

The beach view from inside Hostal Empúries

Costa Brava, Spain

‘The inspiration for our mains was local — succulent pieces of octopus and paella with a profusion of squid’

Diners at Animal

Animal, Los Angeles

‘There was succulent marrow inside a roast bone; poutine lusciously topped with chunks of oxtail’

Charles Dowson
©Charlie Bibby

Take it from the top

Charles Dowson is helping London pubs and restaurants to grow their own by making use of space on the roof

Taberna do Mercado and The Greek Larder, London

‘My favourite dish was an acorda of cod and cod tripe that had been gently cooked in a salt cod stock with olive oil, salt and coriander’

Sage, Co Cork

‘Shortly after 9pm, craic, that other Irish ingredient, filled the room, helped by delicious desserts’

The wonder years

The FT’s Restaurant Insider picks his personal highlights from the past 30 years

Little Barwick House, Somerset

‘A restaurant with rooms can be run with a certain amount of eccentricity’

Kin Khao and Los Gatos, San Francisco

‘A hotter version of the dry-fried ribs in turmeric and curry paste left my head tingling’

Jago, east London

‘Solley’s menus get the attention they deserve at night; by day, Jago is mainly a staff canteen’

Ratapoil and Frenchie, Paris

‘Restaurateurs reported that as the fall in the euro attracts more visitors, business is improving here’

Shikumen, London

‘We were here for the Peking duck and the dim sum — and neither disappointed’

Camino, California

‘I have never agreed that service standards in the US are high because the customer controls the tip’

Hawksmoor, Manchester

The pricing hasn’t changed, although Mancunians do enjoy a special £15 rump-and-chips lunch


Nicholas LanderNicholas Lander writes a weekly restaurant column for the FT Weekend edition

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