WEEKEND COLUMNISTS
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Rowley Leigh writes a weekly column on cookery for the FT Weekend supplement. - -
When in Rome ... do as the vegetarians do
Rowley Leigh just had a vegetarian main course. An unusual occurrence for someone reluctant to move away from the idea of a chunk of protein as being the centrepiece of a meal
The rice man cometh
Rowley Leigh recreates a risotto that he enjoyed in Italy: very simply cooked, with a nice broth, flecks of pumpkin and sage and the rice still perfectly firm
Pleasures of ekeing out
The use of leftovers is a thing of the past. Affluence has not just made us extravagant, it has also made us neurotically hygienic, says Rowley Leigh
Charming both Chardonnay and Chianti
The suckers that cover an octopus’s legs are incredibly succulent and flavoursome and manage to go well with both white and red wine, says Rowley Leigh
It’s easy to tackle fish
A lot of people are a bit afraid of fish, Rowley Leigh muses. They are not so confident when it comes to a proper piece, especially when it is on the bone
Don’t upset the apple tart
The Egremont Russet’s rich wine-like taste, slightly nutty, slightly creamy and very long in the finish makes it not only a beautiful dessert but very good cooked, writes Rowley Leigh
Deer prudence
The roe deer may be bad news for Surrey gardeners but for foodies of Woking and Thames Ditton, it is the best venison for eating by being the leanest, darkest and richest of all, writes Rowley Leigh
The simplicity and elegance of Parma ham
On a press trip to Italy, Rowley Leigh gorges on the famous delicacy and finds the simplicity of its preparation almost bewildering
Chicory tips
Rowley Leigh muses at how the hitherto unpopular endive – whether cooked or prepared as salad – has become widely appreciated like Mom’s apple pie
Raw land, raw fish
Rowley Leigh visits a salmon farm and says whatever one understands of the environmental issues in fish farming, it is a simple truth that a happy animal, or fish, will make for better eating
