WEEKEND COLUMNISTS
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Rowley Leigh writes a weekly column on cookery for the FT Weekend supplement. - -
A taste for cold comfort
The advantage of genuinely cold – not room temperature – meat is that the protein is firm and the fat is as solid and white as cold butter, says Rowley Leigh
A soufflé with the stress removed
For Rowley Leigh, the dish is still superior to the jellies, foams and smears of modern cooking because of its appearance, fragility and sheer lightness
Custard cuts the mustard
Some dishes are more popular than others and some seem to express the personality of the chef or restaurant more than others, writes Rowley Leigh
There’s nothing better than porchetta
Rowley Leigh thinks porchetta is the best street food and cannot imagine why some fast food entrepreneur does not pick up on the idea
Consummate consommé
There is no pretending that making this dish is not indeed ‘a bit of a palaver’ as preparing a good, rich meaty stock takes four hours, says Rowley Leigh
Get your claws into this
The absence of the grand hierarchical approach, which discourages the marriage of seafood with pulses, makes Umbrian cooking especially attractive to Rowley Leigh
When in Rome ....
Rowley Leigh finds it quite extraordinary how many uses the Italians seem to find for cicoria
Do yourself a fava
Some people eat broad beans in their pods. However, the truly aspirant cook knows that peeling is no longer an optional extra but an imperative, writes Rowley Leigh
Great delicacy up for crabs
There’s no easy way around it but if you want the true, sweet taste of the freshly picked meat, you have to do the hard work yourself, says Rowley Leigh
Duck decisions that boil down to peas
Nothing could better illustrate the differences between the French and the Anglo-Saxon cooking than duck with peas, but Rowley Leigh cannot decide which he prefers
