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Rowley Leigh writes a weekly column on cookery for the FT Weekend supplement. - -

Zuppa desserts

While English desserts have not made great inroads into Europe, Rowley Leigh says trifle – that sublime and most self-deprecating of puddings – has been taken by Naples to its bosom

No red herrings on my Christmas fish list

Rowley Leigh is as partial to good smoked salmon as the next man, but he thinks he might change his tune a little this year and introduce herring and ‘blinis’ to the menu

True confections

Inspired by his grandmother, Rowley Leigh prepares dessert courses that make very welcome Christmas presents

Party pieces

Rowley Leigh suggests offering something hot for the Christmas party

Pudding at its peak

Mont Blanc is often made as a cake and served as a free-standing dessert. Adding meringue or ice cream is optional, but Rowley Leigh deems chestnut purée a must

When in Rome ... do as the vegetarians do

Rowley Leigh just had a vegetarian main course. An unusual occurrence for someone reluctant to move away from the idea of a chunk of protein as being the centrepiece of a meal

The rice man cometh

Rowley Leigh recreates a risotto that he enjoyed in Italy: very simply cooked, with a nice broth, flecks of pumpkin and sage and the rice still perfectly firm

Pleasures of ekeing out

The use of leftovers is a thing of the past. Affluence has not just made us extravagant, it has also made us neurotically hygienic, says Rowley Leigh

Charming both Chardonnay and Chianti

The suckers that cover an octopus’s legs are incredibly succulent and flavoursome and manage to go well with both white and red wine, says Rowley Leigh

It’s easy to tackle fish

A lot of people are a bit afraid of fish, Rowley Leigh muses. They are not so confident when it comes to a proper piece, especially when it is on the bone

Don’t upset the apple tart

Deer prudence

The simplicity and elegance of Parma ham

Chicory tips

Raw land, raw fish

Beans on toast by any other name

Seafood fit for a US president

First moment to savour

The upper crustacean

Lore of the Colombe d’Or