WEEKEND COLUMNISTS
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Rowley Leigh writes a weekly column on cookery for the FT Weekend supplement. - -
Zuppa desserts
While English desserts have not made great inroads into Europe, Rowley Leigh says trifle – that sublime and most self-deprecating of puddings – has been taken by Naples to its bosom
No red herrings on my Christmas fish list
Rowley Leigh is as partial to good smoked salmon as the next man, but he thinks he might change his tune a little this year and introduce herring and ‘blinis’ to the menu
True confections
Inspired by his grandmother, Rowley Leigh prepares dessert courses that make very welcome Christmas presents
Party pieces
Rowley Leigh suggests offering something hot for the Christmas party
Pudding at its peak
Mont Blanc is often made as a cake and served as a free-standing dessert. Adding meringue or ice cream is optional, but Rowley Leigh deems chestnut purée a must
When in Rome ... do as the vegetarians do
Rowley Leigh just had a vegetarian main course. An unusual occurrence for someone reluctant to move away from the idea of a chunk of protein as being the centrepiece of a meal
The rice man cometh
Rowley Leigh recreates a risotto that he enjoyed in Italy: very simply cooked, with a nice broth, flecks of pumpkin and sage and the rice still perfectly firm
Pleasures of ekeing out
The use of leftovers is a thing of the past. Affluence has not just made us extravagant, it has also made us neurotically hygienic, says Rowley Leigh
Charming both Chardonnay and Chianti
The suckers that cover an octopus’s legs are incredibly succulent and flavoursome and manage to go well with both white and red wine, says Rowley Leigh
It’s easy to tackle fish
A lot of people are a bit afraid of fish, Rowley Leigh muses. They are not so confident when it comes to a proper piece, especially when it is on the bone
