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Rowley Leigh writes a weekly column on cookery for the FT Weekend supplement. - -
Great delicacy up for crabs
There’s no easy way around it but if you want the true, sweet taste of the freshly picked meat, you have to do the hard work yourself, says Rowley Leigh
Duck decisions that boil down to peas
Nothing could better illustrate the differences between the French and the Anglo-Saxon cooking than duck with peas, but Rowley Leigh cannot decide which he prefers
The spear delight of asparagus
It is difficult to come up with a better ice-breaking or fun sort of dinner-party dish than one including the vegetable, regardless of how it is treated, writes Rowley Leigh
The etiquette of gariguettes
A polite partaking of this sweet fruit is not the way to go – Rowley Leigh says the French strawberry should be eaten with gusto
Gastronomic dreaming
Shabby realities dim Rowley Leigh‘s hopes of sampling authentic Sicilian cuisines, but his rich visions live on
Now and hen
A chicken stew recipe without any trace of ‘acidulated goo’ intrigues Rowley Leigh
A sorrel sign of spring
The sharp-tasting herb serves as a rousing counterpoint to rabbit dishes, writes Rowley Leigh
Neolithic takes on the scientific
Preparing a shoulder of baby lamb at an event, Rowley Leigh gets impressed by the modern and measured methods of his workbench neighbour
Easter the Irish way
Since Easter almost coincides with the feast of Saint Patrick this year, Rowley Leigh considers taking a cue from the Irish and avoid the ovine altogether
Sweet and sour
The rhubarb’s astringency, when tempered by a little sugar and cream, provides a subtle and deeply satisfying savour to the end of a meal, writes Rowley Leigh


