Daniel Rose, Bertrand Auboyneau, Yves Camdeborde, Franck Baranger
©Roberto Frankenberg

The new ‘bistronomique’ generation of restaurants

Old tropes of Parisian dining are being updated. To kick off our special issue, four leaders of the movement share their recipes

Onglet à l’échalote
©Andy Sewell

Onglet à l’échalote

I wonder sometimes what happens to the rest of the animal, so ubiquitous is the unusual cut of ‘onglet’ on the tables of Paris restaurants

Soufflé suissesse with tomato and anchovy sauce
©Andy Sewell

Soufflé suissesse with tomato and anchovy sauce

The ‘soufflé suissesse’ is exceptionally light in texture – but do not let this deceive you

Griddled scallops with chestnut purée, shiso leaves and lemon
©Andy Sewell

Griddled scallops with chestnut purée, shiso leaves and lemon

‘I treated the scallops like lamb and served them with a pea purée and a version of mint sauce’

A dish of sardines in saor
©Andy Sewell

Sardines in saor and sardine pâté

Most traditional methods of preserving fish survive only because we have developed an addiction to the taste

Rowley Leigh's escalivada
©Andy Sewell

Escalivada

The smokiness imparted by the proximity to a naked flame is essential to the flavour of this dish

Illustration by David Sparshott of foraged food
©David Sparshott

The natural food debate: not wild, just crazy

The passion for all things foraged is getting silly. Why the fuss over strange weeds rather than fish, game or berries?

Pork chop with peperonata
©Andy Sewell

Pork chop with peperonata

The chops should be just cooked through but still juicy and very moist

Rowley Leigh's cavatelli al pesto
©Andy Sewell

Cavatelli al pesto

‘The cavatelli formed little ribbed, hollow lozenges that collected every drop of sauce’

Rowley Leigh's dish of stuffed vegetables
©Andy Sewell

Petits farcis

There are as many ‘petits farcis’ as there are cooks but stuffing vegetables should be about intelligent use of leftovers

Roast duck with cherries

It is the sweet and sour element that gives these cherries their special affinity with the richness of roast duck

Cuttlefish stew with beets, chilli and orange

I know nothing marine that stands up to long cooking or yields so much to a stew as the cuttlefish

Rabbit with orecchiette

I was shown a magnificent plump rabbit. After consultation with my host I resolved that we needed three such beauties

Mussels and potatoes

Near the Puglian coast, in not much more than a Portakabin, we sat down to the piscine feast of our lives

The Paris baker: apricot galettes

Sweet, golden-coloured fruit and the lightest of pastry combine to make a mouth-watering treat

Strawberry pie

While unlikely to be perfect, this pie is as good a taste of an English summer’s day as you could hope for

The Paris baker: raspberry cream profiteroles

The lightness and tender crispness of these pastries are what makes them special

Cecina and French bean salad

Chickpeas are the common denominator, whether you are eating garbanzos in Valencia or socca in Nice

A taste of the Middle East from Honey & Co’s chefs

Itamar Srulovich and Sarit Packer live and cook in London but miss their native Israel and its food. These recipes are reprinted from their cookbook

Spanish gold: exclusive recipes from chef Sam Clark

The chef at Morito in London revisits the flavours of her journeys to Spain in five recipes

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