Kolkata: high culture and melancholic decay

From the vibrant atmosphere of the Indian Coffee House to the decaying buildings and rubbish strewn roads, the FT's South Asia Bureau Chief, Victor Mallet, explores modern Calcutta, now known as Kolkata. India's former administrative capital on the banks of the Hooghly river in Bengal is facing severe economic decline, but for the city's artists and intellectuals, there are signs of optimism