Rowley Leigh writes a weekly column on cookery for the FT Weekend supplement.
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Too much elaboration and this very special crustacean loses that saline sweetness that makes it so glorious
Founder of Le Gavroche, the first UK restaurant to win three Michelin stars, he taught a generation how to cook
From mackerel ceviche to pear tarte fine, this Christmas demands 10 days of Saturnalia
This dish with potatoes and onions has graduated from the baker’s oven to every kitchen in France
An ‘inauthentic’ but exquisite variation on a dish from Puglia
‘However odd this dish may seem, it represents a beautifully simple approach to cooking’
‘This fricassee is neither authentic nor inauthentic but simply derived by inhabiting a world, a region, through books’
‘This dish is a piece of cake. It bakes crisp on the outside but remains soft and pliant in the middle’
‘‘If I had to choose between white or green asparagus, I’d have to say white’’
Raw smoked haddock is a fine thing but it needs a squeeze of lemon and a little crunch
Rowley shows his photographer Andy Sewell how to make this exquisite dish via FaceTime
The cook was a master of haute cuisine and a mentor to a generation of chefs
At least eight months old, but still well short of mutton, this classic lamb dish is both tasty and tender
People tend to eat this buttery extravagance in restaurants but it’s easily knocked out at home
From Little Caesars to salmon skin and caviar, these party foods are guaranteed to pack some punch
The sauce has long been part of my repertoire, used with grilled meat, aubergines and especially fish
A startlingly simple way to make the best of fresh fish
Four fresh-veg recipes to maximise nature’s finest flavours
Forget Veganuary: July is the perfect time of year for cutting down on meat
Match this fine fish with sharp-flavoured fruit for a splendid summer dish
Fresh crab, curry and hollandaise sauce — an inspired cultural blend
‘You might think that I’m a little obsessed with artichokes. You’re not wrong. Some vegetables do that’
‘Every table was slurping bouillabaisse, except for two Englishmen in a delirium of fish, garlic and Cassis blanc’
‘Yes, we should eat less meat. But in winter we need vittles that will stick to the ribs’
Bored of dry turkey and indigestible Christmas pudding? Then try something a little different this year
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