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Rowley Leigh writes a weekly column on cookery for the FT Weekend supplement.
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Growing, cooking and eating your own beets is a pleasure that cannot be bought
‘Rich with sugar, fruit and suet, this is good autumn fare, perfect for when we need some inner warmth’
‘Wild fish is rare and precious — we should do it justice by cooking it simply’
‘Served chilled, this summertime twist on the traditional dish will be a hit even on the hottest day’
‘Nothing makes the heart swell quite so much as a crop of vegetables that you have practically begged to grow’
With its airy frangipane, fresh cherries and biscuity crunch, this French-style tart makes a very cheerful dessert
‘There is no mistaking ramsons. You can smell them a mile off and the pretty little white blossoms stand out like fairy lights in a gloomy wood’
The chef and FT food writer tucks into snipe on toast with Samuel Beckett and Thelonious Monk
‘The usual rules for squid are either cook it very fast or very slowly — this recipe does neither’
Too much elaboration and this very special crustacean loses that saline sweetness that makes it so glorious
Founder of Le Gavroche, the first UK restaurant to win three Michelin stars, he taught a generation how to cook
From mackerel ceviche to pear tarte fine, this Christmas demands 10 days of Saturnalia
This dish with potatoes and onions has graduated from the baker’s oven to every kitchen in France
An ‘inauthentic’ but exquisite variation on a dish from Puglia
‘However odd this dish may seem, it represents a beautifully simple approach to cooking’
‘This fricassee is neither authentic nor inauthentic but simply derived by inhabiting a world, a region, through books’
‘This dish is a piece of cake. It bakes crisp on the outside but remains soft and pliant in the middle’
‘‘If I had to choose between white or green asparagus, I’d have to say white’’
Raw smoked haddock is a fine thing but it needs a squeeze of lemon and a little crunch
Rowley shows his photographer Andy Sewell how to make this exquisite dish via FaceTime
The cook was a master of haute cuisine and a mentor to a generation of chefs
At least eight months old, but still well short of mutton, this classic lamb dish is both tasty and tender
People tend to eat this buttery extravagance in restaurants but it’s easily knocked out at home
From Little Caesars to salmon skin and caviar, these party foods are guaranteed to pack some punch
The sauce has long been part of my repertoire, used with grilled meat, aubergines and especially fish