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The brights were turned up for Spring, but in surprisingly sophisticated forms: Jasper Conran showed shell jackets in megawatt shades, while Roksanda’s ball gowns came in highlighter pink.
Sensible shorts are back. Emilia Wickstead showed a wide-leg style that hung just above the knee, while Peter Pilotto brought a hint of Tiki to his floral silk shorts in shades of icy blue and dusty pink.
The millinery came in all shapes and sizes in London. Simone Rocha had models walk in wide-brimmed hats whose giant embroidered veils shrouded their faces, while Michael Halpern and Alexa Chung brought Nineties cool-girl charm with bucket hats.
Erdem Moralioglu brought Victorian flair to the runway with a series of high-necked lace dresses that swept the floor as models walked. Christopher Kane took a saucier approach, with a trio of gowns whose lace bodices resembled rib cages.
First we had millennial pink, then Gen-Z yellow, but in London it was all about orange. Henry Holland showed bright orange shorts and an oversized tuxedo blazer and pops of the colour could be seen throughout the collection at Preen by Thornton Bregazzi.
Many designers paid homage to the puffball sleeve for Spring. At JW Anderson, enormous leopard-print sleeves made a striking contrast against a blue dress, while Richard Quinn’s billowing jet-black cape-coat brought London Fashion Week to a dramatic close.
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