Recipe: chicken with morels

‘You either love morels or you don’t. I have known people not to get the point, despite their succulence and long, savoury flavour’

The tradition of cooking chicken with vin jaune and morels doubtless stems from the time when the chicken would have been the most prized item of the three – since vin jaune would have been the vin de pays and morels were free to those who could be bothered to pick them

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