Meet the tastemakers of 2014
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The photographer: Olivia Bee
Raised in the hipster haven of Portland, Oregon, 19-year-old Olivia Bee has become a buzz name. Known for her romantic, documentary-style photos, Bee started out chronicling her early teenage experiences and by 14 her work had been picked for a Converse campaign based on her Flickr photo uploads. Hermès was one of the first luxury labels to pick up on her with a dreamy short film “Il Est Pour Nous”. Other clients include Adidas, Fiat USA, Nike 6.0, Vice Magazine and Wieden + Kennedy, while she has appeared in numerous magazines. Bee was asked to photograph Roger Vivier’s autumn campaign in 2013, and recently shot Russian fashion maven Miroslava Duma for Vivier’s spring-summer 2014 Codes collection. Vivier brand ambassador Inès de La Fressange says: “Olivia takes photographs like real friends do: with gaiety and tenderness. Her generation’s culture is Instagram and Facebook; there’s always joy, spontaneity and apparent casualness. The photos are de-saturated and the model never really poses.”
The fashion florist: Rambert Rigaud
Formerly studio director at Yves Saint Laurent and Dior Haute Couture, Rigaud launched the flower studio and home store Rambert Rigaud Fleuriste en Herbe in Paris only last year, but Givenchy, Dior, Saint Laurent, Cartier, Carven, Charlotte Olympia and Valentino are already customers. With dramatic, statement-making floral sets de rigueur for shows and parties, expect to see more of Rigaud’s petal power this year. “My style is natural, using flowers of the season. I’ve bought my ability to pair colours from fashion to floristry,” says Rigaud.
The stylist: Julia Sarr-Jamois
A former model and fashion editor at Wonderland magazine, as well as a regular contributor to Vogue UK, Teen Vogue, Pop and Vogue Japan, Sarr-Jamois became editor-at-large at i-D in December 2013. Her striking afro and original style, often combining prints, colours and vintage denim, have made her a favourite among street-style bloggers and a fixture on best-dressed lists. Among other projects, she styled Moschino Cheap & Chic’s spring/summer 2013 London show and has curated pop-up shops for Topshop.
Influencer: Miroslava Duma
Founder of leading Russian fashion news site Buro 24/7, as well as digital media director at Russian department store Tsum, Duma has established herself as a poster girl for a new Russian aesthetic. Given that Duma currently has 531,000 followers on Instagram and 43,287 on Twitter, it is hardly surprising she has become a magnet for luxury brands. As well as appearing in Roger Vivier’s spring 2014 collection, she is also a Chanel ambassador.
The make-up artist: Yadim Carranza
Fresh from his stint at Dior as international make-up designer, Yadim Carranza created Lady Gaga’s smeared dramatic clown face on the cover of Gaga’s single “Applause”. Known as just Yadim, the Mexican-American make-up artist cut his teeth as assistant to the legendary Pat McGrath. Yadim had begun as a shop assistant at MAC before working on its professional make-up team. “He’s charismatic and good-looking, and whether that’s right or wrong, it always makes a difference in this business,” says Anna-Marie Solowij, founder of BeautyMart. “But primarily he’s talented, seriously hard-working and, equally important, brave. Very few people who are as new to the game as he is have the guts to do what they feel.”
Pop-up artists: Bonsoir Paris
Paris-based duo Rémy Clémente and Morgan Maccari founded Bonsoir Paris, a multimedia creative studio in 2010, and have rapidly carved out a niche for their cool and quirky store windows, pop-up shop designs and advertising projects. For Selfridges’ 2013 Bright Young Things campaign and pop-up store supporting new British innovators, the pair created a series of playful windows with giant, brightly coloured inflatable structures holding up slabs of marble, with products suspended. “They intelligently transform simple materials – whether it’s wood, marble or inflatables – to create truly original and playful environments,” says Alex Bec, director of London creative agency INT Works. Watch out for their forthcoming collaboration with Paris department store Galeries Lafayette. Dubbed Quoi de Neuf, it will showcase curated haute couture.
Creative: Faye Toogood
London-based Faye Toogood is founder of Studio Toogood, which creates furniture, interiors, installations and spaces with an experimental approach, employing unexpected uses of materials. It has worked with brands including Comme des Garçons, Penfolds, Kenzo, Opening Ceremony, Perrier-Jouët and Nivea. Hermès is the latest to dip into Toogood’s talent, hiring her to create a dramatic temporary installation for the arrival of its travelling “Petit h is Hermès” shop at its London Bond Street flagship. More recently, Toogood has been establishing her own brand and a foothold in the world of beauty and fashion, collaborating with make-up artist Ayami Nishimura to create a capsule make-up collection for MAKE, sold through ethical beauty website We See Beauty. For spring 2014, Toogood, and her fashion design sister Erica, have also launched T-o-o-g-o-o-d, a capsule collection of eight sculptural unisex jackets inspired by workwear of professions including milkmen, beekeepers, oil riggers and couriers.
Beauty plus: Isamaya Ffrench
Isamaya Ffrench fits in to a growing trend for interdisciplinary, art-meets-theatre-meets-beauty-meets retail creatives (Gary Card, London-based set designer, store interiors and window creator for Louis Vuitton is another). Ffrench makes masks, and creates sets and body art alongside her work with make-up. She marbleised all the mannequins in her windows for Liberty’s autumn/winter 2013 shop windows, created body paint and tribal looks – as well as unnerving animal masks – for Galleries Lafayette in Paris, painted Moncler models in mysterious dark paint for autumn/winter 2013 and worked on the retro styling of Uniqlo’s recent LifeTools campaign. She has also collaborated with Love magazine.
Lucie Greene is editor of LS:N Global, the trends forecasting division of the Future Laboratory