Nicholas Lander, Restaurant Insider

Our critic reviews a panoply of restaurants – from Hong Kong to Paris, Girona to Galway and Manchester to Margate

The food menu comprises two pages, the wine list 22

‘The pumpkin porridge had far greater charm than its name suggested’

‘‘Emily Roux combines the essential criteria for a restaurateur — a love of food, wine and people’

‘While displaying sophisticated technique, the chef never conveyed the idea he took himself too seriously’

‘My late father, who told me never to trust a skinny chef, would have felt we were in expert hands’

The London branch of a luxe Chinese restaurant group fails to impress Nicholas Lander

More from this Series

‘The first comes highly recommended for dinner while the latter provides a meal with a decidedly local flavour’

‘The 11-course tasting menu justified everything we had heard about the restaurant’

‘A glass of suanmeitang — sour plum juice — is the traditional Chinese antidote to a throat on fire’

From Guy Savoy in Paris to Angela’s in Margate, our critic’s culinary highlights of 2018

Nicholas Lander enjoys dinner and lunch at the much-discussed Tribeca restaurant

‘This latest foray reveals his love of good Catalan food and wine but the space lacks excitement’

‘This is not crazed foraging but a thoughtful use of the best local ingredients’

Nicholas Lander on Michelin-star-winning chef Tom Kerridge’s first London restaurant

‘The Massaman chicken curry had lots of colour, lots of chicken and a sauce flowing with coconut milk, red chillies and cashew nuts’

‘A dish described as a “liquid summer salad with basil and olives” seemed pure El Bulli’

‘The boned skate wing with caviar looks so generous it could be called caviar with skate’

‘The tempura came with a dipping sauce so alluring that we refused to give it up’

‘Galway might be the world’s most attractive city in which to be a restaurateur’

‘Was it their policy not to charge for champagne?’