Nicholas Lander, Restaurant Insider

Our critic reviews a panoply of restaurants – from Hong Kong to Paris, Girona to Galway and Manchester to Margate

‘I requested a seat at the counter to watch these chefs in action’

‘The bone marrow and steak tartare would be a fitting candidate for my Desert Island dish’

Anyone who finds French cooking predictable will have their eyes opened by this Michelin two-star in Alsace

Nicholas Lander discovers some great scran at two new spots in the Scottish capital

Lobster, crab and cured brill — Britain’s freshest seafood

It’s prime asparagus season: take full advantage of this all too temporary treat

More from this Series

The food menu comprises two pages, the wine list 22

‘The pumpkin porridge had far greater charm than its name suggested’

‘‘Emily Roux combines the essential criteria for a restaurateur — a love of food, wine and people’

‘While displaying sophisticated technique, the chef never conveyed the idea he took himself too seriously’

‘My late father, who told me never to trust a skinny chef, would have felt we were in expert hands’

The London branch of a luxe Chinese restaurant group fails to impress Nicholas Lander

‘The first comes highly recommended for dinner while the latter provides a meal with a decidedly local flavour’

‘The 11-course tasting menu justified everything we had heard about the restaurant’

‘A glass of suanmeitang — sour plum juice — is the traditional Chinese antidote to a throat on fire’

From Guy Savoy in Paris to Angela’s in Margate, our critic’s culinary highlights of 2018

Nicholas Lander enjoys dinner and lunch at the much-discussed Tribeca restaurant

‘This latest foray reveals his love of good Catalan food and wine but the space lacks excitement’

‘This is not crazed foraging but a thoughtful use of the best local ingredients’

Nicholas Lander on Michelin-star-winning chef Tom Kerridge’s first London restaurant

‘The Massaman chicken curry had lots of colour, lots of chicken and a sauce flowing with coconut milk, red chillies and cashew nuts’

‘A dish described as a “liquid summer salad with basil and olives” seemed pure El Bulli’

‘The boned skate wing with caviar looks so generous it could be called caviar with skate’

‘The tempura came with a dipping sauce so alluring that we refused to give it up’

‘Galway might be the world’s most attractive city in which to be a restaurateur’

‘Was it their policy not to charge for champagne?’