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Simone Rocha was playing with textures for SS16. Plastic cording had been woven — like loom bands — into bodices over feather-light tulle, while the lowly jelly shoe had been elevated from its beachside shuffle, resoled and studded with diamanté.
In only five years, the 29-year-old, who lately opened a flagship store on Mount Street, has become a rightly celebrated designer, beloved of the avant guardists (who adore her wicked sense of subversion and exaggerated silhouettes), and women who appreciate a flattering cut, statement coat and sensible hem length. Here again, she married awkward textural juxtapositions with ease: a pretty kimono tulle tea dress was tied up in transparent cable; tobacco sponge trousers were teamed with white embroidered plastic: a daisy jacquard was given extra welly with a heavy patent brogue. The tensions were cleverly tempered — all tied up in the rope motifs that ran throughout. And there were moments of sublime simplicity: silk gowns in nude and black, with a dropped, gathered shoulder and open back, stood out.
“I saw a bride in a bamboo forest,” said Rocha’s show notes. And there was a clutch of delicate white dresses befitting of a church service. Is Rocha getting into wedding gowns more seriously? I hope so. How brave and brilliant a Rocha-wearing bride would be.