The house of Hemmerle in Munich is Germany’s foremost niche jeweller. It uses bold designs and combinations of materials to make spectacular objects and jewels.

The juxtaposition of a beautiful 20 carat diamond set into a modern polished brass ring make a brave statement of understated luxury – somehow you can imagine wearing it everyday – and gives the diamond stone an entirely original look. Vivid orange melo pearls are mixed with copper and ebony and matched with moonstones in sleek jewels that you cannot find in any other store or any other city in the world. That said, Hemmerle does have plans for a travelling exhibition and will be at Browns Hotel in London on November 17-22.

Hemmerle was established in the 19th century and takes inspiration from the Bauhaus movement. However the intricate design and detail used by Stefan Hemmerle, the creative force behind the house, gives the work a contemporary feel.

Textured iron, patinated copper, aluminium and stainless steel with rare woods like amaranth suggests masculinity, but although the overall look of Hemmerle is strong, the polished veneers are soft and the inventive colour combinations are intensely feminine.

A brass ring set with green, brown and yellow diamonds is lined inside with yellow gold: “It has to be comfortable next to the skin,” explains Mr Hemmerle, “and to feel good.”

Each piece is individual and they only have capacity for 500 pieces a year, so the market can never be flooded with the Hemmerle look.

“Sometimes the right stone doesn’t come in for three or four years,” he says. “So we can only produce pieces when we can.”

“People seem to like the fact that we are not always available,” he adds. His theory is that time invested in something special makes you treasure it more.

The complicated mixture of material makes Hemmerle’s work impossible to copy. Without imitators, Hemmerle pieces can only be found at Hemmerle stores, adding to the exclusivity of this niche high end jeweller.

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