Rocamadour (above) is a village in the south-west of France, overlooking the Alzou gorge, above the Dordogne river. Home to medieval watermills and churches, it is a sacred site for pilgrims.
— Every Wednesday and Saturday I make the 20-minute journey to the market in Martel (below). It is full of local produce such as foie gras and nut oils. I always pick up some poultry and tangy goat’s cheese produced on a family-run farm in Rocamadour, the Borie d’Imbert. It’s also the perfect place to grab some fresh strawberries and a cup of coffee to start the day.
— After my morning market stroll, I like to retreat to Troubadour, a small cottage hotel that has a garden filled with lavender. It’s a peaceful spot in which to eat Périgord cassoulet with duck confit for lunch. All the herbs are from the kitchen garden.
— I also like to visit the historic Grand Hôtel Beau Site. This is a family-run boutique hotel, with a restaurant called Jehan de Valon. Built on one of Rocamadour’s many cliffs, you can dine with a bird’s-eye view of the village. It tends to serve one of my favourite dishes — Quercy lamb. The lamb is fed on its mother’s milk, hay and grain, and the meat is very tender. In general, the food is a modern take on old classics. The garden terrace, which still catches the sun in the evening, is always buzzing. I like to order a glass of Cahors wine as an aperitif.
— To round off a gastronomic tour of Rocamadour, you must have dessert. One of the local specialities is a cake made with local walnuts, often served with warm custard.
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