Feasts forward

The Taste of Tomorrow: Dispatches from the Future of Food, by Josh Schonwald, HarperCollins, RRP£16.99, 304 pages

The future of food brings to mind sinister scientists in hairnets wielding pipettes in search of space food, yet Josh Schonwald’s glimpse into what we’ll be eating in 2035 begins with a distinctly un-futuristic food: salad.

Nearly a third of the book is given over to lettuce, from the dominance of iceberg to the rise of romaine, the development of salad bags and the possible ascent of chicory. From the salad fields of Salinas, California, he moves on to the more science-fiction friendly future of meat and fish: burgers that don’t come from a cow and have been enriched with Omega-3; cobia – the “next salmon” – grown in giant indoor tanks hundreds of miles from the ocean.

Schonwald is a good-natured and curious guide whose lightness of touch keeps you reading. A non-foodie at the start, he grows into his quest, championing sustainable, local and even genetically modified food to help feed the world.

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