If you’d have told me eight years ago that my student habit of scuttling to the shops to grab a bowl of hangover noodles in my vintage silk pyjamas and a slouchy tweed coat was eventually going to come into vogue, I’d have scoffed at you.

Nevertheless, fashion works in mysterious ways. Lounge lizard styling is in, lending AW21’s collections a louche look. Think robe-like jackets and dressy pyjama shirts that are designed to be worn anywhere but tucked up in bed. From Louis Vuitton’s tailored wrap coats to Armani’s kimono jackets, or even Prada’s “long-john-esque” printed bodysuits, the chicest designs of the season all nod to nightwear. 

Brioni wool coat, £5,960. LEJ silk Le Plage pyjama shirt, £325. The Row cashmere hat, $590. Port Tanger acetate Mektoub sunglasses, £265. Bottega Veneta gold-plated bracelet, £1,330
Brioni wool coat, £5,960. LEJ silk Le Plage pyjama shirt, £325. The Row cashmere hat, $590. Port Tanger acetate Mektoub sunglasses, £265. Bottega Veneta gold-plated bracelet, £1,330 © Leon Mark
Louis Vuitton wool double-face peignoir, £6,900, and silk pyjama trousers, £1,300. Petit Bateau cotton top, £17
Louis Vuitton wool double-face peignoir, £6,900, and silk pyjama trousers, £1,300. Petit Bateau cotton top, £17 © Leon Mark
Emporio Armani wool kimono jacket, £980. Petit Bateau cotton tank top, £17
Emporio Armani wool kimono jacket, £980. Petit Bateau cotton tank top, £17 © Leon Mark

Mr Porter has tracked this trend over the past 18 months, as buying manager Daniel Todd explains: “Unsurprisingly, pyjamas and loungewear was one of our bestselling categories during the pandemic and this growth continued throughout 2021. Brands are embracing the customer shift in demand for comfort dressing and are incorporating cosy styles into their collections,” he says. “Now it’s about a low-key wardrobe that combines slouchy silhouettes with tailoring and overcoats, as both consumers and brands continue to adopt the high‑low trend of the ‘new normal’.”

Saint Laurent by Anthony Vaccarello aged-leather shearling coat, £5,225, wool Western tunic, £810, and leather belt, £220. Dunhill silk trousers, £795. Port Tanger acetate Mektoub sunglasses, £265
Saint Laurent by Anthony Vaccarello aged-leather shearling coat, £5,225, wool Western tunic, £810, and leather belt, £220. Dunhill silk trousers, £795. Port Tanger acetate Mektoub sunglasses, £265 © Leon Mark
Prada jersey coat, £2,800, wool bodysuit, £1,600, and leather shoes, £880. Port Tanger acetate Mektoub sunglasses, £265
Prada jersey coat, £2,800, wool bodysuit, £1,600, and leather shoes, £880. Port Tanger acetate Mektoub sunglasses, £265 © Leon Mark

So how should we wear this season’s key pieces out in the wider world? Luke Walker, who designed menswear at Dunhill, Paul Smith, Lanvin and Drake’s before launching his own label LEJ, knows a thing or two about daytime loungewear styling. This season, he introduced two new Le Plage pyjama suits, coordinating cotton and silk striped camp collar shirts and drawstring trousers. Each is designed to be worn around town, layered beneath chore coats or raglan macs.

Fendi woven nylon coat, £3,500. Valentino cotton shirt, £750. Saint Laurent by Anthony Vaccarello cotton trousers, £810. Port Tanger acetate Mektoub sunglasses, £265. Bottega Veneta gold-plated bracelet, £1,330
Fendi woven nylon coat, £3,500. Valentino cotton shirt, £750. Saint Laurent by Anthony Vaccarello cotton trousers, £810. Port Tanger acetate Mektoub sunglasses, £265. Bottega Veneta gold-plated bracelet, £1,330 © Leon Mark
Saint Laurent by Anthony Vaccarello nylon bathrobe coat £2,365. Fendi wool turtleneck, £695. De Fursac velvet printed trousers, £275. Prada leather shoes, £880
Saint Laurent by Anthony Vaccarello nylon bathrobe coat £2,365. Fendi wool turtleneck, £695. De Fursac velvet printed trousers, £275. Prada leather shoes, £880 © Leon Mark

“One of the main reasons for founding LEJ was to celebrate the beauty of traditional menswear shirtings and craftsmanship, without the trappings of office attire,” Walker explains. “In menswear, we’re sadly reliant on convention. By adding the pyjama to the daily lexicon it provides much more choice for men. A pyjama can more easily carry pattern, colour and unusual fabrications like silk or voile. All of which means we’re less done-up and that bit freer.”

The key is not to overthink your own daytime loungewear looks. Structured jackets help to elevate pyjama shirts or drawstring pants, while a luxe robe coat looks swish dressed with a simple rollneck, sneakers and neatly tailored trousers. “I wear my pyjamas pretty much like any other shirt,” adds Walker. “I start with just enough buttons fastened to stay on the right side of propriety, and then undo one more.” 

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