Experimental feature

Listen to this article

00:00
00:00
Experimental feature

There were sugary dresses, metallic suits and shiny pastels at Rochas SS16, where designer Alessandro Dell’Acqua had called upon the spirit of Gala Dalí to inform a collection rich in delicate embroidery and sorbet-shaded leathers and shrouded in a mist of pale organza. (Throwing a sheet of gauzy white over an outfit is de rigueur this season: think Casper the friendly coat.)

The frilly mules and delicate tulles were steadied, just about, by Dell’Acqua’s sporty touches: the hint of a track vest under sheer organza; a jagged graphic under a black lace blouse.

Dalí, a Russian sexual provocateur and a key figure among the Surrealists (she married Salvador Dalí in 1934), might have blanched that so much frothy prettiness had been created in her name. But there were sweet, eccentric touches — a needlework scene of giraffes admiring each other in the sun, stitched under tulle macramé, for instance, and a sumptuous summer coat in black, all embroidered in gold. And yes, since you ask, there was an eye-shaped brooch . . . 

For more reports from the shows, go to our fashion weeks page on FT.com

Photographs: Catwalking

Copyright The Financial Times Limited 2018. All rights reserved.