In the pink
Shades of sugar bon bons, blush and beyond made a sweet antidote to all the tough stuff on the London catwalk. Yes, even though many designers have embraced a new sombre mood for next season with a palette of inky shades, there is still room for a touch of light, if not low-cal, relief. It wasn’t all about little-princess dressing for grown-ups either: some candy shades even looked subversively edgy – for example at young designer Simone Rocha’s catwalk outing – and were usually offset with those aforementioned inky hues. Even Erdem – who worked with a predominately black palette for the first time – allowed himself to add a little saccharine to the mix. “It’s about sweetness on the inside,” he said of his black and sweet pea pink-feathered confection.
The new season is all about texture – or so say the pundits – and what better way to offset all that mohair, lace, tweed and boiled wool than with the slither of a little synthetic? All manner of man-mades popped up in the most unexpected places – rubber skirts and dresses at Burberry Prorsum and plastic coated wool coats and full skirts at Roksanda Ilincic – but it was a master of print who made it look like an (almost) viable option. “Yes, it’s plastic,” said Jonathan Saunders, eyeing up his high-waisted skirts and tops. “There is definitely a kinky element to next season.”
With New York’s Metropolitan Museum of Art launching a major punk retrospective this May, it’s no surprise that the home of punk would want to get in on the action. Cue collections full of mini kilts, tartan, zips, camouflage and buckle-strap boots in a hard palette of black, white and red – but given a bit of couture spit and polish for good measure. “We were inspired by Derek Jarman’s cult film Jubilee as well as Richard Avedon’s images of haute couture,” said Preen’s Justin Thornton. Also, possibly, the idea that all those folks who attend the Met’s opening gala might need a thematically appropriate outfit for the red carpet.