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Where does one go to get a skinny black trouser any more? Even at Versace, the trousers were slung low on the hip and wide on the leg. At Ann Demeulemeester, though, legs were liquorice-stick thin and set on stilettos.

No easy, breezy here: the models all wore black mesh bodysuits and harnesses which collared the neck and plunged down in a narrow cable to the navel. Fringing daubed with white made a spiky choker detail and was studded over a jacket like a jagged breastplate.

There were softer elements at play in Sébastien Meunier’s collection too. Silk overcoats in a monochromatic print that recalled tree bark flowed over the body, and a scarf waistcoat cinched at the waist. There were pops of acid yellow, and green as well. But SS16 in Demeulemeester-land was definitively black, gothic and plumed with iridescent feathers, like a fashion-folkloric crow.

For more reports from the shows, go to our fashion weeks page on FT.com

Photographs: Catwalking

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