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Cologne often claims to be unisex, then turns out to err toward testosterone. Not so Maison Francis Kurkdjian’s genuinely genderless Aqua Celestia (€160), which has the genre’s required citrusy fizz, but with an edge of autumnal crispness. In Oud Eclat (£150), Miller Harris has done a topsy-turvy oud that will appeal even to sceptics, putting the oud up top, with sugar, balsam and nutmeg at its heart. Ormonde Jayne’s Evernia (£160) places oakmoss, often used to add richness to a chypre, at centre stage for a trip down to the woods softened by a floral combination of lily, freesia, orris, violet and Moroccan rose.
Jacques Cavallier Belletrud tore up the rule book to create “deconstructed” perfume for Les Parfums Louis Vuitton’s Les Extraits Collection (£400 each) – Rhapsody, for example, is a play on a classic chypre. And for a new way to discover scent, subscription service Hoohaa distils an abundance of fragrances by indie perfumers into three different “edits”, with subscriptions from £14.95 a month (a 12-month gift subscription is £139). It’s a route to hidden treasures such as Maya Njie’s Les Fleurs (£90), the fragrance equivalent of taking a deep breath of fresh air.
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