Tim Hayward’s restaurant reviews

From an ‘irreplaceably wonderful experience’ to his ‘angriest experience of the year’, read our critic’s highs and lows

‘The crustacea are caught “over there” — that’s about 200m from your plate’

Leeds has many good restaurants — but this one is very close to the ideal

‘At no point does any course — and there are 20 — drop below exceptional’

‘I’d eat a chicken raw, in full feather and fighting back if chef Fini said so’

Tim Hayward on why it’s ‘glee-inspiring to see the Soho institution reconnecting so comfortably with its own tradition’

‘This took me back to the first time I ate a meze — the childish joy of conveying thrilling new things to my mouth with fat fingers and hot bread’

More from this Series

‘It blends half a dozen cultures without transmitting an iota of soul from any of them’

Who comes out on top in the battle to deliver the best steamed pork dumplings? Tim Hayward delivers his verdict

‘I was wowed by some of the best executions of a particularly delightful Italian idiom that I’ve tasted in or out of Italy’

‘I would probably strangle my firstborn to eat the duck again’

‘A piece of shortbread is evidence of the existence of God’

The libertines might have disappeared — but the steak is ‘the perfect evocation of the American Dream’

Tim Hayward visits the Herefordshire restaurant that helped start a revolution — and delights in every course

‘It’s as uncomfortable as Hell, with seating straight from the mind of Dante Alighieri‘

‘I want, with all my heart, to say I love it but I can’t. The food is competent, on-brand but soulless’

‘It’s muscular dude-food meets healthy eating, with an Italian accent’

‘The Lambrusco tastes as if someone gave a five-year-old a home-brew kit, some Toilet Duck and an Alka-Seltzer’

‘Hallsworth is making the kind of food that people who love food, love’

Tim Hayward on why the food there will ‘want to make you weep with joy’

‘If your menu choice is right, it’s a meal you’ll remember your whole life’

‘Chef Tom Brown knows fish and flavours well enough to go off-road’