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I’ll be first to admit: I usually sit through Jeremy Scott’s Moschino shows in a rictus of discomfort. Like the school square who’s just not in on the joke.

Since taking the creative helm at the house at the end of 2013, Scott has redirected the label’s focus towards the street and souped-up the company’s profits. At his first Barbie and second Looney Tune-themed collections, everything was designed for maximal social media exposure and a prime spot on the red carpet for one of Scott’s adoring #honeyz — who include Rihanna, Katy Perry, Miley Cyrus et al.

Nothing has changed. Why then, did I enjoy his SS16 “construction couture” show so much? Lord only knows. Except I did. I thought the hi-vis haute skirt suit in eye-watering neons were kind of inspired. The models in massive fringed ball gowns — like the huge poufy cylinders at the local carwash were both ridiculous and rather charming. The traffic-cone print florals were quite pretty. The eighties Versace-style satin prom dresses, embellished with blinking red Cadillac brake lights made me actually ha ha.

Mostly though, it was the models I loved. With their Evangelista-era short hair and attitude, it was a joy to watch them bring so much energy to a catwalk. The current trend in catwalking, such that it stands, is a blank-faced enervated traipse toward the cameras, enacted with the enthusiasm one might approach the green mile. Here was real personality. The same models suddenly made effervescent. And it looked good.

Photographs: Catwalking.com

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