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As Paris gets geared up for the furore of its week of fashion, on the opening day, Sunday, the American designer Rick Owens sent out a strong and succinct if sombre-toned collection. Taking his favourite fabrics of leather, fur and jersey, he cleverly moulded and shaped them in line with the current overriding fashion trends for volume and men’s tailoring.
Tops with oversized funnel necks in wool cashmere that fell open and draped and gaped down the front like a lion’s giant yawn made the point clearly and inventively. They were followed with a variety of leather jackets from fitted sheepskin styles with giant collars that sometimes spanned backwards to form a hood. High funnel-necked versions were kept fitted at the front but given volume at the back with a wide pleat that formed just a hint of a cape down the centre or cut to billow out behind like a partly pumped up balloon.
Clever moulded leather techniques also provided detailing, such as curved peplum hems to the front of a jacket, while intricate panelling added men’s evening dress tails to the back and sides of jackets were all guaranteed to have us wishing it will be cold outside next winter.
Fur was also used with simple long sleeveless waistcoats, swaddle-worthy fitted wrapover front jackets and coats that often featured Owens’s signature curved seaming which wraps around the trunk.
Skirts provided the simplest of compliments to the intricate jackets with just below-the-knee silk jersey drapery hitched up slightly at the front and gently gathered at the back to give a hint of bagginess, as if in a hazy reflection of what was on top.