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The Maxmara collection was inspired by the architect and designer Lina Bo Bardi, and the show was infused with the palm prints, athleticism and modernist themes of Sixties Tropicalia. Blame it on Rio? The house’s signatures had been given a fresh sporty twist: a sporty white mesh coat; jersey leggings and jodhpur trousers; a black hoodie worn under one of the label’s classic white cashmere coats.
The looks were worn with a slingback mule with perforated holes in. Clog-like shoes for clomping in have cropped up on several catwalks. These looked a little like an elevated Croc, a shoe that has enjoyed the most unlikely fashion renaissance of the season.
But beyond the gym kit, there were striking details; the knitwear was vibrant with florals and animal motifs. Varsity-style sweaters have been an emerging feature of the shows for the past two seasons and it seems every house has now their own motif; SS17 has already seen mushrooms and big cats at Gucci (the label that arguably introduced the idea), a shark at Coach, ship shapes at Tory Burch, a St Christopher at Christopher Kane and a dragon at JW Anderson. Maxmara’s contribution? A ring-tailed raccoon. It was cute. The sweaters are a novel take on branding, much more subtle than all those shouty logos, and a neat way for the fashion set to show their brand allegiance.
But Maxmara’s clients are less inclined to show their colours. Thankfully, for them, the collection still featured many shades of taupe.