Listen to this article
One house, two labels — and another take on the themes of Oceania. At Sportmax, MaxMara’s svelte little sister, SS16 also started with the sea. There were peekaboo portholes, fishing net and chandlery details, but this time these nautical accents were interpreted via 1960s futurism. The deep scalloped hem of a bright dress mimicked that of a sou’wester, remade in leatherette and sailcloth cottons.
The chandlery motif was banded around jackets and shirt dresses as a chainlink print, but so was it used as a patch-pocket shape on a boxy jacket, or an appliqué detail on a yoke: it felt fresh and minimal, especially alongside the slinky navy jumpsuits and lifebelt orange gowns.
There were nice plays with proportion: waists were cinched with heavy black banding, while skirts billowed down below, and a simple shirt dress grazed the upper thigh. The windswept volume was all anchored in heavy wedge-soled shoes.
Where MaxMara’s take on maritime teetered towards cutsey, this was a more sophisticated approach where even juvenile seashore signatures were navigated with a steady hand. The fishing net scrolled artfully around the body on a crêpe de chine. The sou’wester looked chic.
For a house that had fully fished the waters this season, Sportmax caught the whoppers.
For more reports from the shows, go to our fashion weeks page on the FT web app