Steak and kidney pudding

Traditionally, the meat in a suet pudding was cooked in the pudding and not before, and would take a good few hours. I am too much of a coward to trust to nature and I certainly would not attempt the exercise with a meat as unyielding but flavoursome as shin of beef. I also take the view that the kidney does not benefit from too long a cooking time. Either way, a good steak and kidney pudding is a thing of joy and a very British response to a wet and dismal February.

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