Just as pre-fall appears in stores, pre-spring (aka resort) appears on runways. But how to make sense of a season that spans from November through to May? The answer for a number of designers: skin. Sometimes yours, sometimes an animal’s, sometimes something that looks like an animal’s.
At Calvin Klein, Francisco Costa showed ultrasuede in tones from cream to sapphire, plus cropped cotton knits to show a strip of toned stomach; at Ralph Lauren, trenches and trousers came in stretch pastel suede, while arms and shoulders were bared in leotard-like ballet-inspired knits.
At Céline, Phoebe Philo also played with coloured suede in unlined trenches, while Michael Kors truncated leather tennis-inspired dresses and sequinned leopard spots on to gowns, Diane von Furstenberg added leather pockets and trim to car coats and jackets, and Sonia Rykiel celebrated “leatherette” culottes. Snakeskin showed up at Lanvin and Reed Krakoff; and at Stella McCartney as a print – while leather bombers were de rigueur everywhere from Erdem to Acne.
On the lighter side, Altuzarra finished blouses in sheer chiffon and played peekaboo with lace on cocktail numbers; Riccardo Tisci went transparent with lace trousers with undershorts at Givenchy; and at Nina Ricci, Peter Copping proved the leg’s the thing in shrunken metallic tweed skirts or lace short suits. Come November, the pelt you choose is up to you.