In this issue

The principal reason for the industry’s uncertainty is the clampdown on the giving of gifts in China

Watches & Jewellery: Caution over growth

The principal reason for uncertainty is the clampdown on the giving of gifts in China, writes James Shotter

the new BaselWorld building

BaselWorld redesign: leaves gloom behind

In keeping with the massive scale of the project, brand stands have also had a makeover, writes Jessica Diamond

Gold price fall will have mixed effect

Price fall will have instant effect in some cases but jewellery is more than the sum of its parts, says Claire Adler

Hong Kong: Tiny city remains crucial market for Swiss exports

Special Administrative Region takes 20% of industry’s output, writes Alex Doak

Omega’s new Seamaster Aqua Terra watch

Technology: Omega’s invention protects against magnetism

Battle to rid mechanisms of the destabilising effects of magnetic fields has been waged since the 19th century, writes Timothy Barber

BaselWorld jewellery: Stars align for a comeback as emerald named colour of 2013

The move to green has been reinforced as the gems make a comeback on the red carpet, writes Maria Doulton

the Breitling Emergency watch

Breitling Emergency: Life-saving device for the extreme sports person

Second generation is about to be launched, writes Nicholas Foulkes

Mid-century success: Anniversary tribute to testosterone timepiece

Robin Swithinbank celebrates the longevity of TAG Heuer’s Carrera

BaselWorld: Timepieces to watch for at the show

The world’s leading watchmakers present the cream of their new creations, writes Maria Doulton

the 2013 SIHH fair

SIHH assessment: ‘Shaky momentum’ as industry faces some difficult realities

Many brands have felt obliged to adopt more protectionist strategies, writes Robin Swithinbank

Centurion Fair: Exhibitors refuse to even hint at the prospect of a downturn

Upbeat mood masks anxiety over US recovery, writes Anthony de Marco

Alternative gems: Organic approach by designers is here to stay

A nod-to-nature aesthetic has increased the use of non-traditional stones but ethics are a concern, says Corbin Chamberlin

British designers: Young talent in need of better opportunities to flourish abroad

Establishment puts something back as public funding dries up, says Avril Groom

British watchmaking: Henley plant may mark revival of UK horology

Bremont facility in Oxfordshire is the first large-scale factory to operate since the war, says Simon de Burton

Pricing strategy: Campaign to appeal to a wider audience of middle brows

Luxury brands have been quietly introducing far more accessible timepieces, writes Avril Groom

High jewellery: Prestige and presence are vital in bringing sparkle to a new market

The big fashion brands are launching gem ranges, says Maria Doulton

Beyond marketing: Campaigns begin to exploit new media

High-end brands embrace digital promotion, says Robin Swithinbank

The problem with men: Retailers puzzle over how to set out the stall

Finding the right method of display is a delicate art – and is still at an experimental stage, says Syl Tang

Female ambassadors: Compelling message of a true fan works wonders for brands

Avril Groom reports on a trend that favours those who are in the know

Ladies’ loves: Focus is on complications in a beautiful relationship

Women’s technical interest is far greater than a decade ago, writes Avril Groom

Watches and film: Tribeca deal is a bid for the creative high ground

IWC has become the festival’s official ‘time-partner’ in an effort to make an impact on the world via New York, writes Jim Shi

Jewellery crossover: Historic houses explore feminine side to boost growth in sales

Maria Doulton finds collections are being made to complement watch models

CEO interview: Thierry Stern, Patek Philippe

Elizabeth Paton finds the head of the Swiss luxury house unmoved by success

Retail: Multibrand store opens its doors in the City of Light

Following the success of the Lucerne emporium, Paris is focusing on the needs of tourist customers, writes Nicholas Foulkes

Tel Aviv designers: Israeli melting pot has forged international style

Individualists have come up with fashion, accessories and jewellery that have caught on worldwide, writes Claire Adler

Vanity cases: Encrusted bags evoke an age of elegance

Claire Adler previews an exhibition that explores the history of make-up

Irradiation: Industry opinion divided over gem enhancement

There are concerns that treating stones could affect value, writes Syl Tang

Marketing coloured stones: Resurgence of ‘big three’ sees a return to tradition

Emeralds, rubies and blue sapphires are being championed by ethical miner Gemfields, writes Vivienne Becker

Auktionen Dr Crott: Small German house with a big reputation among aficionados

Simon de Burton on a company that specialises in antique pocket watches

Preview: Spring into auction season as clocks go forward

Blue-chip sales are already off to a good start, with signs that the category is set for another stellar year, says Simon de Burton

The robot revolution: Creative embrace of computer technology

Three-dimensional printing makes bespoke jewellery more accessible and affordable, writes Claire Adler. But has it got heart?

New diamond brokers: Well-connected middleman has evolved into savvy marketer

Value added in new areas as original role becomes less crucial, writes Claire Adler

Retreat from convention: Independent designers seek alternatives to traditional trade

Jewellers are finding different ways to sell, including hire purchase arrangements, writes Elisa Anniss

Book review: Journey from grim beginnings of greatest exponent of his craft

Simon de Burton on George Daniels’ life, one of triumph over adversity

Record production piece: Most expensive masterpiece inspired by a restoration

Simon de Burton is impressed by complex features – and price