©Graham Roumieu

Sulphur: friend or foe?

‘The problem is that if no sulphur dioxide is added, then the wine has no defence against harmful bacteria’

On the menu

Summer cocktail, raspberry jellies and yoghurt cream ©Patricia Niven
Sweets crammed with luscious ripe berries and sumptuous stone fruit, plus a fruity gin cocktail
Illustration by Simon Pemberton ©Simon Pemberton
Edward Behr meets two of the leading exponents of ‘grower champagne’, producing a terroir wine whose appeal is its direct connection to nature
Smoked haddock doughnuts
©Patricia Niven

Recipe: smoked haddock doughnuts

‘These little nuggets are perfect party food — savoury and just salty enough to get you reaching for your drink; easy to pass round and pick’

Daroco, adjoining Danico
©Benoit Linero

Summer drinking: Paris rendezvous

A new spirit of patriotism is coursing through the cocktails of the French capital

Piccola Cucina

Five of the best: restaurants in Notting Hill

Carnival-goers in west London will be spoilt for choice for stylish places to unwind or continue the party

restaurant reviews
Agern, New York
©Evan Sung

Agern, New York

‘The restaurant’s emblematic starter is a whole beet baked in a salt-vegetable ash crust’

Natalie Whittle

Rebecca Seal

Drunken clams (left) with two salads by chef Jowett Yu
©2015 IB Photography Ltd.

Ho Lee Fook, Hong Kong

‘On the wall by the staircase leading down to the restaurant, gold-plated cats raise their right paw as though in welcome’

Randall & Aubin, London

‘The spaghettini marinara was stupendous — bound together with a cooked-down tomato sauce’

The restaurant at Blandford Comptoir

Blandford Comptoir, London

‘The gazpacho zinged with flavour, a risotto was enhanced with Italian summer truffle’

The dining room at The Ninth

The Ninth, London

‘The cubes of feta were creamy, smooth, ambrosial curd from celestial goats’

The Market Bistro’s dining room

The Market Bistro, King’s Lynn, Norfolk

‘This might be the most authentic expression of hospitality I’ve experienced in long, jaded years’


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