New model Pomerol

‘Wine lovers would be surprised at the fluidity of the boundaries of the various Bordeaux châteaux’

Five of the best

No 67 in Peckham ©Leonardo Tommasin
Battered squid by the sea or lychee martinis in Chelsea: galleries across the UK have raised their gastronomic game
Conker Spirit gin
Using ingredients that range from foraged gorse flowers to Galaxy hops, small distillers are producing some creative and intriguing gins
The dining room at Brae
©Colin Page

Brae, Birregurra, Victoria, Australia

‘The most astonishing thing we ate looked like a prawn cracker but had a delicious echo of beef dripping. What was it?’

Chicken, sweetbread, ham and artichoke pie
©Andy Sewell

Recipe: chicken, sweetbread, ham and artichoke pie

‘Robust foods like this and prodigious eating are hardly in fashion’

Yauatcha's macaroons

Five of the best: cocktail-dessert bars

The top London locations for sweet-toothed treats and creative drinks, from cashew macaroons to Marmite black velvet

restaurant reviews
Studio Qulinarne

Studio Qulinarne and Bottiglieria 1881, Kraków

‘I didn’t expect the quality of the food to be so exciting or the enthusiasm so infectious’

Suvlaki’s postmodern concrete columns

Suvlaki, Soho

‘What happened to the kebab? Surely it must be time to reappropriate the healthy, grilled lamb flatbread’

A cabbage hotpot at the vegetarian restaurant Dirt Candy
©Evan Sung

Dirt Candy, Sweetgreen and Dovetail in New York

‘The textures, flavours and colours revealed why this style of cooking can be so rewarding’

The White Spoon dining room

The White Spoon, Cheltenham

‘While there is pride in ingredients, there is no feeling of robust joy in the food; there is innovation but little inspiration’

Bar chef Rob Simpson
©Charlie Bibby

The Clove Club, London

‘Today’s bar chefs take advantage of what the kitchen is producing as the base material for cocktails’

The Ivy after its renovation
©Jack Eastham

The Ivy, London

‘I have a longstanding grouse with the bookings arrangements of London’s über-brasseries’


Martin Sandbu

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