An illustration by Toby Morison of a corkscrew chart
©Toby Morison

Crossroads for Côte d’Or

‘Land in Burgundy is no longer affordable for Burgundians . . . Those with an eye to the future are investing in cheaper land to the south’

On the menu

The odd blip – whether in a Chelsea bun or a Blumenthal dish – tells you a real human is at work
– Tim Hayward
Jewish Cookery ©FT
Most postwar Anglo-Jewish households owned a copy of this book, a perfect mix of eastern European staples and ‘new’, continental fare
– Polly Russell
Baked apples
©Andy Sewell

Baked apples

‘Some apples stay firm when cooked, and some collapse, but only the Bramley positively explodes’

Pork tenderloin

Five of the best: Philadelphia BYOBs

The city’s small, chef-driven BYOB restaurants stand out for their creativity and value for money

restaurant reviews
Gordon Ramsay restaurant
©Gordon Ramsay Holdings

Restaurant Gordon Ramsay, London

‘We shared a glass of Barbeito Rainwater Madeira over Smyth’s signature dessert, a lemonade parfait’

The Foxhunter

The Walnut Tree Inn and The Foxhunter, Abergavenny, Wales

‘The skate had been sautéed, then the shrimps were added, alongside creamy mashed potatoes’

Ham Yard boasts lots of space and natural light

Ham Yard Hotel, London

The interior design is ultra-modern – and will strike some as colourful, others as confusing

Les Papilles’ dining room

Les Tablettes, 16th; Les Papilles, 5th, Paris

Nomicos’ goal is to transport the flavours of his native Provence to Paris. In this he admirably succeeds

Orrery’s dining room
©Tim Winter

Orrery, London

Orrery stands as an example of how one restaurant can spark change on the rest of the street

Els Casals

Fonda Sala and Els Casals, Catalonia, Spain

A glass of cava, a plate of salami with green peppers and the sunset made for an unforgettable aperitif

Open kitchen at Barrafina
©Paul Winch-Furness

Barrafina, Covent Garden, London

‘The skewers of big grilled chunks of loin of Ibérico pig are the sort of bar snacks they serve in Valhalla’