Illustration by Graham Roumieu of rioja label being left behind
©Graham Roumieu

What’s in an appellation?

‘Quality-conscious wine producers would love to see those who run the Rioja region acknowledge different quality levels’

Taste tests

Greek yoghurt with honey ©Sam Armstrong
‘We didn’t include low-fat Greek yoghurts since we found the suggestion of self-denial distressing’
Illustration of crips by Joël Penkman ©Joël Penkman
‘A little bit of potato skin gives the deep-fried morsels a straight-from-the-allotment minerality’
English cake
©Patricia Niven

Recipes: pistachio and cranberry cake and dried fruit and spice cake

The Honey & Co chefs grew up on ‘English cake’ but not quite as the English know it — a cherry and orange loaf perfect for exotic spice and fruit

Originàrio’s 'Italian Passion' selection
©Laura Spinelli

Five of the best: Valentine’s food gifts

For the Epicurean in your life: exquisite teas, Italian delicacies, very smart chocolate bars — or a brilliant brunch tip

Anglo-Chinese pheasant dumplings
©Tamin Jones

Recipe: Anglo-Chinese pheasant dumplings

Filled with game and pork belly, these English twists on ‘jiaozi’ dumplings are a wintry delight

E5 Bakehouse
©Helen Cathcart

Five of the best: bread-making courses

From pain rustique and sourdough to bagels and gluten-free . . . here’s where to shape your bread-making skills

restaurant reviews
Black Axe Mangal restaurant
©Lewis Khan

Black Axe Mangal, London

‘The bread has been laid down, smeared with a bass of gutty earthiness and then topped with a screaming solo’

L’Assiette Champenoise’s dining room
©Gerald Malaise

L’Assiette Champenoise, Reims, France

‘The fondue of salsify with black truffles was a wonderful combination of a cheap vegetable given an injection of luxury’

The restaurant’s interior
©Issy Croker

Lurra, London

‘The slow roasting retains every millilitre of juice. One mouthful of lamb had the texture of a poached oyster’

The dining room at Vezené

Vezené, Athens

‘Vezené has cleverly designed a restaurant whose menu defines what so many of today’s customers are looking for’

The Bellanger bar
©David Loftus

Bellanger, London

‘Alsace, Austria and Switzerland might once have been home to this kind of grand restaurant but they also had some bloody awful food’


Martin Sandbu

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