Daniel Rose, Bertrand Auboyneau, Yves Camdeborde, Franck Baranger
©Roberto Frankenberg

The new ‘bistronomique’ generation of restaurants

Old tropes of Parisian dining are being updated. To kick off our special issue, four leaders of the movement share their recipes

PARIS FOOD SPECIAL

La Dernière Goutte
By far the busiest of Paris’s most interesting wine shops was a new one on the edge of the Marais that sells not a bottle of French wine
– Jancis Robinson
Onglet à l’échalote ©Andy Sewell
I wonder sometimes what happens to the rest of the animal, so ubiquitous is the unusual cut of ‘onglet’ on the tables of Paris restaurants
– Rowley Leigh
At Dessance: scamorza, mini mirabelle plums and mustard leaves
©Kate Fichard

David Lebovitz: Beyond the chocolate eclair

From mustard leaf sorbet to bean purée brioche, French pâtisserie is evolving in delectable directions

Le Clown Bar
©Jérôme Galland

Pure pleasure: the natural wine bar scene

In little more than five years ‘vins naturels’ have become a sensation in Paris. Isabelle Legeron picks her favourite places to imbibe

Sylvia Whitman
©Stéphane Remael

My Paris: A little place I know

Where do the locals buy baguettes, stop for coffee or have a blowout dinner? Sally Hayden and Natalie Whittle discover some ‘bonnes adresses’

Michel and Pierre Huot at the market on Avenue du Président Wilson
©Lauren Fleishman

Power of the street markets

Despite the threat from big business, street market traders still animate life in Paris. Hugh Carnegy spends a day with two of them

Les Papilles’ dining room

Les Tablettes, 16th; Les Papilles, 5th, Paris

Nomicos’ goal is to transport the flavours of his native Provence to Paris. In this he admirably succeeds

Orrery’s dining room
©Tim Winter

Orrery, London

Orrery stands as an example of how one restaurant can spark change on the rest of the street

Els Casals

Fonda Sala and Els Casals, Catalonia, Spain

A glass of cava, a plate of salami with green peppers and the sunset made for an unforgettable aperitif

Open kitchen at Barrafina
©Paul Winch-Furness

Barrafina, Covent Garden, London

‘The skewers of big grilled chunks of loin of Ibérico pig are the sort of bar snacks they serve in Valhalla’

Toto’s dining room
©Helen Cathcart

Toto’s and Artusi, London

Nothing is going to get in the way of an evening that runs like a speedboat crossing the Lido

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