In New York, Dominick DeMarco's 47-year quest to make the perfect pizza is living mythology. DeMarco works alone, stretching his dough, growing herbs on his windowsill.

Walking into DiFara's, his shop in central Brooklyn, one might be surprised by the ramshackle appearance. Even those who do not arrive expecting fanciness may be taken aback by the flimsy walls and the folding picnic tables.