Is “Brand Gordon” on the wane? Gordon Ramsay has dominated the London restaurant scene for the best part of a decade, but according to Harden’s restaurant guide, published on Tuesday, “the foundation is suddenly looking very shaky”.

Although its 2008 guide finds four of his restaurants in the top 10, Harden’s claims standards are “slipping”. And, perhaps in keeping with the chef’s expletive-ridden foul temper, that view provoked a furious reaction in the Ramsay camp.