The seafront at Great Yarmouth, eastern England, is an unapologetic blast of neon and nostalgia - from the Leisureland amusement arcade and the Pirates Cove adventure golf to the slot machines in Caesar's Palace.

But behind the fakery and glitzy façades are some elegant historic buildings. The Zen nightclub was once The Empire, a cinema built in 1911 in "free Renaissance style", while the grade I-listed Hippodrome, built in 1903, is still one of only three purpose-built circuses in the world, And then there are the houses. What, at first glance, looks like a town of nothing more than rows of humdrum terraced houses is also a place of mediaeval streets and Victorian squares and no fewer than 232 listed buildings.