One thing I can say about Margate is that the sand is lovely. As fine as powder, the colour of turmeric, it must be one of the best stretches of sandy beach on Britain's south-east coast. But what else can I tell you about Margate? I mean, what else can I say that includes the word "lovely"?

It was certainly busy when I strolled along the seafront on a sunny August afternoon. Packed with daytrippers, the beach was like a seaside annexe of south London (and just as multi-ethnic). There were donkeys, deck-chair vendors, pedalos, plastic dinosaurs whizzing around on an electric carousel, kids, kites, a bouncy castle. In the background, strips of neon flashed an invitation to Margate's amusement arcades: this way to Dreamland, to the Flamingo lounge, to hours of "family fun".