Small, flat and not much to see. That damning verdict on Ventotene by a travel guide – the author of which probably never bothered to check out that accepted piece of wisdom – is all the more reason to get on a boat and go.

Island-hopping does not feature prominently on Italy’s itineraries, but as a sedate alternative to dashing around packed piazzas, the state-run (but soon to be privatised) ferries servicing the west coast between Rome and Naples offer a safer and saner way to travel.