When night falls in Hetes, a gypsy settlement on the edge of the northern Hungarian town of Ózd, the men take to the streets and mount a guard, arming themselves with all kinds of makeshift weapons, from clubs to kitchen knives.

“We’re up all night,” said Henrik Radics, his hands resting on a scythe. “If a car comes in, we stop it and find out what they’re doing. If they’re peaceful we let them go.”