There is altruism and self interest in the crusade of Brian Stein, chief executive of Samworth Brothers, a large Midlands food company, to obtain European Union geographic indicator status for traditional British snacks such as pies and pasties.

He has helped win protection for the description “Melton Mowbray” as it is applied to the town’s famous pork pies. They must be made near Nottingham or Leicester using grey, uncured meat.