On a green hillside above Spain’s southern city of Granada stands the magnificent Alhambra palace, the last seat of Iberia’s Muslim rulers and the country’s most famous monument to centuries of enlightenment and religious coexistence.

Across the Darro river, perched atop a steep hill stacked with whitewashed houses, is Granada’s modern beacon of Islam: the first mosque to be built in the city since the collapse of the Moorish Iberian empire, known as al-Andalus, 500 years ago.