Henri Bour glances round the courtyard of the old farmhouse his parents restored when they fled Algeria after independence in 1962. "There was nothing here, not even a single vine. They did everything. That's why I don't want to let it go," he says.

For 10 years he has run the Grangeneuve vineyard in Coteaux de Tricastin, the arid, southern region of the Rhône Valley. Now, aged 65 and thinking about handing over to the next generation, the former Pernod Ricard executive fears for the future.