As even a casual visitor to Japan can attest, in this Michelin-star studded country, there is food, glorious food. From the most sumptuous feasts concocted entirely from simple vegetables, to the endless variations on the humble onigiri rice balls that line the shelves of convenience stores, the inventiveness and care that go into food production in Japan make it a true foodie’s paradise.

But contemporary Japan’s rich culinary culture owes as much to the free flow of global trade in agricultural produce as to the creativity of its chefs. Despite its staunchly protectionist stance towards agriculture, which has defined its position at World Trade Organisation talks, Japan is one of the world’s largest importers of food products. The country that brought the world miso soup, tofu and soya sauce produces only 20 per cent of the soyabeans that go towards making these daily staples.