My first interview with chef April Bloomfield was five years ago, just before she set off for the US to make such a success of the Spotted Pig in New York's West Village, and was easy to arrange. A quick phone call led to lunch at Kensington Place, where Bloomfield used to work, and a fascinating discussion.

Trying to meet her on a recent visit to the UK proved much more difficult. It involved the exchange of numerous e-mails to try to pin down a time as Bloomfield was keen to visit her family in Birmingham and to catch up with as many new British restaurants as possible before her second restaurant, the John Dory, opens in early November in New York's Meatpacking District. Finally, we managed to meet for a cup of tea at Maison Bertaux in Soho.